
Henry Disston & Sons, Inc. 



The 

DISSTON 

LUMBERMAN'S 
HANDBOOK 



A practical book of information on the 
construction and care of saws. 




BEG.U.S.PAT.OFf, 



Copyrighted October, 1921, by HENRY DISSTON & SONS, Inc. 
All Rights Reserved. 



Henry Disston & Sons, Inc. 

Philadelphia, U. S. A. 

NEW YORK SAN FRANCISCO SEATTLE 

CHICAGO MEMPHIS BANGOR, ME. 

CINCINNATI NEW ORLEANS PORTLAND, ORE. 

BOSTON VANCOUVER, B. C. 

SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA 
CANADIAN WORKS : TORONTO, CANADA 



<s^ 



63 



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Previous Editions of the 

Disston Lumberman's 

Handbook 

1881 
1888 
1899 
1802, August 

1906, September 

1907, September 

1908, September 

1913, October 

1914, May 

1915, January 

1916, January 

1917, March 
1917, December 
1919, April 

A Chinese edition was published in 
September, 1908. 



CU62938e 



■■^tri 



NOV -9 1921 ^.,. rh'^ 



f\\ C 



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FOREWORD 



THE HISTORY AND DEVELOPMENT OF THE 
HOUSE OF DISSTON 

As far as can be learned the first saws of any kind manu- 
factured in the United States were made by Wilham Rowland, 
who started in business in Philadelphia in 1806. In 1823 Aaron 
Nichols opened a small plant in Philadelphia, and in 1828 or 
1829 a firm in New York City took up the making of circular 
saws from English steel. These v/ere probably the first circular 
saws made in this country. Noah Worrel began, in New York, 
about 1835, to make trowels and small circular saws. About 
1833 William & Charles Johnson commenced the manufacture 
of saws in Philadelphia and it was with this concern that Henry 
Disston learned his trade. 

In 1840 the firm of William & Charles Johnson failed and 
Henry Disston accepted from them some tools, steel, and such 
material as he could get in the saw manufacturing line on 
account of wages due him and began the manufacture of saws 
in his own name. After this there were several small industries 
started, such as Jonathan Paul in 1840, J. Bringhurst in 1842, 
James Turner in 1843 and Walter Cresson in 1845. These 
latter were each in turn bought out by Henry Disston. 

Previous to 1855 all the crucible steel used in this country 
in the manufacture of saws was brought from England. In that 
year, Henry Disston built and operated the first successful 
crucible-steel melting plant for saw steel in the United States. 
The crucible steel so made by Henry Disston was hauled from 
the works to a mill some 5 or 6 miles away and there, under his 
guidance, was rolled into sheets and taken back to the Disston 
Works to be made into saws. After making steel in this way 
for several years, Henry Disston built a rolling mill and from 
then on used his own make of steel for manufacturing saws. 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



It was a long and hard struggle for Henry' Disston to secure 
recognition and command trade for his American-made goods, 
but how he succeeded is now well known. 

Up to this time the American market was supplied almost 
entirely by the foreign manufacturers, but the growth and 
development of this business in the United States since then 
has been phenomenal. Now, and for some years past, there 
have been practically no saws of any foreign manufacture im- 
ported into the United States, while on the other hand the 
American-made goods are exported very largely to all parts 
of the civilized globe. 

But little or no advances were made in the manufacture of 
saws previous to the time of Henry Disston, and practically 
all the improvements in quality, style, and methods of manu- 
facture were made by him and his successors. To them is due 
the credit of placing American-made saws in their present posi- 
tion — at the head of the markets of the world for quality, 
finish, and correctness of pattern. Improvements on the old 
time patterns have been made from time to time, the aim being 
to make each as perfect and as suitable as possible for the par- 
ticular class of work for which it is intended. 

The House of Disston has a very large export trade, shipping 
great quantities of saws, files, and other goods to all the South 
American States, England, France, Germany, Russia, India, 
Australia, South Africa, in fact it is impossible to name a country 
in which saws are used where the Disston goods are unknown. 
In these foreign countries, as well as at home, they are looked 
upon as second to none, in support of which fact the large 
business will testify. 

The first patent issued for a saw in the United States was to 
L. R. Bump, in 1828, for a Barrel saw. 

A Mulay saw was patented in 1832. 

The first circular saw patented was by L. Hitchcock, in 
1833, 

A Bilge saw with inserted teeth was patented in 1835. 

It is generally conceded that the idea of a band-saw was 
conceived as early as 1808, by Wm. Newberry. However, this 
type of saw is of comparative recent introduction, having been 
merely a curiosity for years. 

Some time after the close of the War — before 1866 — Henry 
Disston went to Paris. There he learned of a new band-sawing 
machine and brought back two of these machines with saws. 



DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 



The band-saws used were ^ inch wide and with the larger 
machine there were some sHghtly wider saws. 

These were the first band-sawing machines in this country, 
as far as can be learned, and when they were first installed in 
the Disston Works there was hardly half a day's work done 
in the shops, for the curiosity of the men was aroused and all 
must have a look at the new machines. It took some little 
time to educate the men to work on these machines for they 
all had fear that the saw might break and cut off their arms. 

Henry Disston had been trying for sometime to obtain a 
machine with which to saw out handles. He gladly seized 
this opportunity, and it was not long before he installed two 
other band-sawing machines which were made in this country. 

Prior to this, with the old walking-beam jig saws then in 
use, the handles were sawed inside and outside and a man could 
only do about 20 dozen a day. But when the band-sawing 
machines were in operation there was always plenty of '^sawed- 
out" work. 

The first band-sawing machines spoken of above were con- 
structed of iron frames somewhat similar in form to those 
now in use, the later improvements consisting mainly of changes 
in guides and tightening mechanism. These machines, un- 
fortunately, were lost in the fire which destroyed the plant of 
Henry Disston in the latter part of 1872. 

The six inch wide band-saws exhibited by Henry Disston & 
Sons at the Centennial Exposition in 1876 were looked upon as 
great curiosities. Considerable trouble, at that time, was ex- 
perienced in running what were then termed ''such wide saws." 
At the present time Henry Disston & Sons are making band- 
saws as large as 18 inches wide, 64 feet long — some with 
teeth on both edges so as to cut both ways — the forward and 
backward movement of the log — these saws being as large as 
17 inches wide, 53 feet long. These are the largest saws of 
the kind ever made and are working satisfactorily. 

The House of Disston has made inserted tooth circular 
saws for cutting metal, as large as 87 inches in diameter, 1 inch 
thick, and cutting a kerf 1 3^ inch, with teeth of air-hardened 
steel, adjustable in the blade. The first of these saws was made 
in 1893 and was considered the largest of its kind in this coun- 
try at that time. In 1905, Henry Disston & Sons made the 
largest inserted tooth circular stone saws ever manufactured. 
These are capable of sawing at the rate of 16 inches per minute. 



DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 



They were 100 inches in diameter, one-third inch thick, weighed 
800 pounds each, and contained 180 teeth, in each of which 
was embedded a diamond for cutting purposes. Since these 
were put in use, dupHcate orders have been received from time 
to time. 

Large as the above saws are, they were echpsed in size by 
the two circular cut-off saws made in the Disston Works, April, 
1920 — the largest saws in the world. These saws, 108 inches 
in diameter, each saw containing 190 inserted teeth, weighed 
approximately 795 lbs. They were built to run at a speed 
of 130 miles an hour, for sawing immense logs into shingle bolts. 

The size of these saws will be better appreciated when one 
realizes that a 54 inch circular saw, ordinarily considered a 
large one, weighs approximately 125 lbs., while the 108'' saw, 
just twice the diameter, weighs more than six times as much. 

The successful manufacture of such giant saws affords a 
striking example of Disston facilities and experience. 

With reference to improvement in quality of goods, so far 
as saws are concerned there is such a material difference in 
these that it would be difficult to explain. For instance, take 
circular saws as made years ago. Then a 54 inch or 56 inch 
saw was about the largest made. These were ground by two 
men, one on each side of the grindstone, who ran the saw over 
the top of the stone. When it came to ''balancing" this saw, 
to make it run without ''wobbling" as the term is, it was placed 
on a mandrel supported by uprights, and given a slight turn. 
Naturally the heavier part would settle or turn down. Pieces 
of steel or rings were then hooked to the teeth on the upper or 
lighter portion of the saw to balance it and to determine the 
quantity of metal to be ground off the heavy side. This was 
done mostly by guess, but nevertheless the saw had to be 
made so it would balance. The saws of to-day are ground on 
automatic machines which make them true to gauge through- 
out, and it is not necessary to do any work for balancing. Again, 
saws are made to-day over 100 inches in diameter, and by 
the Disston method of grinding they are made true and per- 
fectly balanced. 

This does not mean a sacrifice of quality for price, because 
the saws can be made much better at less cost by these new 
machines. With the old methods it took two men a whole 
day to grind one saw whereas now one man can grind five or 
six saws of the same size in a day. 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



Saws were formerly hardened and tempered from the fur- 
nace bottom. The smither had a whole da3^'s work to straighten 
one of these circular saws. To-day, however, Disston saws 
are so hardened and tempered by a special process that they 
come out flat and even. A man can now smith in one day 
eight saws of the same type that required a whole day with the 
old method. The quality of the saw is better because less 
hammering on a circular saw means that the saw will run 
better and hold its tension better. 

This is a further reduction of cost with an increase in quality 
and efficiency in the goods. The improved processes and machin- 
ery insure an accuracy and uniformity not otherwise obtainable. 

The same thing applies to handsaws and smaller blades. 
In the early days all the teeth were put in by a treadle press, 
eleven dozen being a good day's work, while with the appliances 
of to-day a man will cut 120 dozen, and cut them better and 
more accurately. This follows also as to the grinding and 
other processes. 

In comparison with past methods of manufacturing, and 
considering the present enormous consumption of saws and 
tools, were it not for the up-to-date manufacturing equipment 
and the organization of concerns of great magnitude, the cost 
of the goods would be alpiost, if not actually, prohibitive, nor 
could the demand be met or satisfied. 

On the other hand, the possession of adequate means and 
facilities for immense daily output enables the production of 
goods of uniform high quality at lowest possible cost, by which 
the user or consumer assuredly profits. 

Then again, such organizations command the opportunity 
to experiment. These experiments lead to the improvement 
of old, and invention of new, articles in their lines. 

In the sharpening of saws a great many files are consumed 
and it was on this account that Henry Disston decided to make 
his own files. To decide was to act and in 1869 a plant was 
established fully equipped with the latest appliances and ma- 
chinery. Skilled workmen were secured. From that time on 
improvements were made wherever possible in order to obtain 
a file superior in quality, shape, and teeth. To-day there is 
no better plant of its kind or one of its size that has a greater 
output of a superior quality, making the multiplicity of all 
kinds of files necessary to the trade. At least 35,000 dozen 
Disston Files are used annually in the Disston Saw Works. 



DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 



All new ideas, inventions, and suggestions in the way of 
improvements are fully tried out. For this purpose a special 
department is maintained wherein a staff of mechanical en- 
gineers, designers, and machinists is employed. This depart- 
ment is fully equipped and therein all specially designed Disston 
machinery is built, and that already installed is kept in up-to-date 
working condition. As soon as improvement is effected, old 
machinery is discarded whether or not it is worn out. 

With the invention and installation of perfected machinery 
comes a corresponding and direct benefit to the mechanic, both 
from a physical and financial standpoint. For while there is 
a greater and better output and consequent increase in earning 
capacity, the physical strain is lessened and the surroundings 
become more healthful. For instance, before oil was intro- 
duced for firing the furnaces, the hauhng of coal for both the 
small and large furnaces, the raking and cleaning out of ashes 
several times a day tended to raise dust and cause discomfort. 
Now the shops are kept clean and comfortable. The ground 
floors of cement are washed weekly. Metallic lockers and 
enameled iron wash stands are provided and general improve- 
ments have been made throughout for the comfort and well- 
being of the employees. Shower baths have been installed for 
the use of those employed in the polishing and grinding rooms, 
while in all departments where there is dust — emery, sand, 
sawdust, shavings, etc., there are large pipes connected with 
exhaust fans which carry the dust out of the buildings and into 
independent pits. Various iron bridges connect the second 
stories of the different buildings so that in case of conflagra- 
tion employees can pass easily from one building to the other. 
These bridges, in connection with the fire escapes, are con- 
sidered the best method of procuring safety. 

In no factory is the well-being of the employees looked after 
or considered to a greater extent, (nor does a better affiliation 
exist between the employer and employees,) than in the estab- 
lishment of Henry Disston & Sons, Inc. In connection with this 
it may be stated that there are twenty-one men having service 
records of fifty to sixty-two years; eighty men, forty years 
and upward; one hundred and eighty-eight men, thirty to forty 
years; three hundred and thirty men, twenty to thirty years, 
and six hundred and nine men, ten to twenty years, while work- 
ing beside these 1228 men are more than 2300 younger saw and 
tool makers of highest skill — very largely sons and grandsons of 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



the older men, which speaks for progress! veness. All the old 
employees, incapacitated by reason of age, are retired with a 
pension for the remainder of their lives. 

THE HOUSE OF DISSTON WAS THE FIRST: 

To make crucible sheet steel in the United States, and is the 
only saw manufacturing plant making its own steel for the full 
line of saws. 

To build and install an electric furnace in the United 
States, in which crucible steel was made. 

To build and install automatic machines for toothing saws, 
cutting an average of 1500 teeth per minute. 

To build and install automatic machines for toothing gradu- 
ated rip saws. 

To introduce improved processes for filing saws. 

To harden saws under specially designed dies, thus keeping 
the saws flat. 

To temper saws under hot dies, which operation insures 
uniformity of temper. 

To use automatic hammers in smithing saws. 

To use automatic machines for grinding saws. 

To ''stiffen" saws — an operation which restores the natural 
spring to a saw after it has been worked on. 

To introduce in the United States band sawing machinery for 
the cutting of wood in making saw handles. 
To make hacksaw blades for power machines. 

Saw manufacturing plant in the United States to make its 
own files. 

In the United States to make inserted tooth circular saws 
for sawing metal. 

The House of Disston originated and patented many saws 
and tools including inserted teeth for circular saws for cutting 
both wood and metal, gullet tooth circular saws, etc., cross-cut 
saws, skew-back handsaws, etc., various small saws, new and 
improved machinery, processes of manufacturing. And in addi- 
tion to these we have a number of other valuable improvements 
not patented and which are used excKisively in the Disston 
Saw Works. 



DISSTON STEEL 

The strongest material, that is, steel of highest quality, 
is required for the making of saws. 

The evidence before us in the great quantity of steel annually 
produced, the many plants engaged in its manufacture, the fact 
that we see it on every hand and put it to use, easily and 
familiarly, may lead us in error to assume that steel of high quality 
is readily produced. Not so, however, for it is necessary, 
by the exercise of great care, extreme accuracy and experience, 
to combine in ''Saw Steel," certain expensive elements or 
alloys to produce a steel capable of resisting the greatest strain. 
Each tooth of a good saw must be sufficiently hard to with- 
stand the wear and retain its sharp edge the longest possible 
time. It must be tough enough to swage readily and per- 
fectly without flaw. It must be stiff enough to require force 
to bend it and at the same time so tough that it will bend with- 
out strain or fracture. No chain is stronger than its weakest 
link, no saw better than its weakest tooth. 

Steel, therefore, is required absolutely free from blow- 
holes, pipes, seams, splits, and other physical defects. It must 
be uniform in hardness — in a word, perfectly homogeneous. 






Fig. 1 


Fig. 2 


Fig. 3 


Pipe defect 


Honey-combing defect 

10 


Sponginess 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



Steel of 60,000 pounds tensile strength, considered perfectly 
safe for the construction of a boiler, a bridge, or building, is not 
one-third strong enough for the making of a satisfactory saw. 

After repeated and unsuccessful efforts to procure steel of 
desired quality, Henry Disston in 1855 erected a crucible steel 
plant expressly . adapted to the manufacture of saw steel 
and since, by constant effort and unlimited expenditure of time 
and money in research and improvement of process and ma- 
chinery, the plant has been extended and enlarged until now it 
is undoubtedly the largest and best of its kind in the world. 

Figures 1, 2, and 3 show defects as they originate in the ingot 
under usual methods. 

There is another serious defect which cannot be discovered 
in the fracture of the Steel. That is segre- 
gation which is brought about, especially in 
large masses of cast steel, by a separation 
of some of the elements from the root. 
These segregate and collect into ''pockets" 
or portions. This results in an un-uniform 
quality of steel which is harder and stronger 
in some parts than in others. 

In the Disston ''special process" this 
segregation is perfectly overcome by so 
casting the ingots that the cooling is uni- 
form throughout and by the use of certain 
rich alloys as a mordant in a particular 
manner known only to a few experienced 
workmen. 

This means the production of a steel 
perfectly sound, free from blow-holes, sponginess, pipe, and all 
other physical defects, and absolutely uniform in quality. See 
Fig. 4. 

Steel of high quality cannot be produced from cheap or 
inferior material. By the selection of best materials, Swedish 
refined iron, and carefully melted in plumbago crucibles, the 
Disston product is of highest quality and superior strength; a 
recent test of a sample showing 

Tensile strength 220,000 lbs. 

Elastic limit 168,000 " 

Taken from the mould in which it is cast, the steel ingot in 
the form of a solid block, in weight 200 to 800 pounds as re- 

11 




Fig. 4 
Sound and uniform 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



quired, is very carefully inspected. The surface flaws, if any, 
are removed by chipping, the ingot is then very carefully heated 
and hammered to a '^saw slab" of dimensions required. After 
being very carefully inspected again it is sent to the mill to be 
rolled into a plate or plates. Here again great care must be 
used in the heating and working, for large saw plate ingots 
of considerable size must be drawn to large dimensions without 
injury to the quality of the steel. As the steel itself is hard 
and tough, mills of enormous strength and nicety of working 
parts are essential to produce saw plates of uniformity. Great 
care is taken to avoid the injurious strains that careless rolling 
and working may often develop. 

After the plate is rolled it is very carefully heated to a cer- 
tain uniform temperature to soften it and bring it to a condition 
of uniformity. It is then pressed under dies and flattened, 
after which it is carefully trimmed and inspected. 



12 



GENERAL INFORMATION 
ABOUT CIRCULAR SAWS 



STYLES OF TEETH FOR CIRCULAR SAWS 

The illustration below represents the general styles of teeth 
for circular saws, from which selection may be made of the 



^aJJJj (a^ 



VH' 



Ji 






^ 




•o<V 




UoN 




Fig. 5 

13 





:S 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



style desired. These cuts show shape only, the teeth being 
made in various sizes. 

SOLID TOOTH SAWS 

Teeth Nos. 2, 4, 5, and 17 are for cross-cutting; Nos. 11, 
12, 13, and 14 for ripping; Nos. 1, 6, and 8 for cross-cutting or 
ripping; No. 18 for mitreing or cross-cutting. The 
''slotted rim" is adapted to any pattern of solid 
tooth saw. The slots allow for expansion and con- /\^ A A 
traction in the rim of the blade, thus lessening S'^''^^At^^ 
the risk of breakage, particularly in operating cir- 'SS?¥^i & 
cular cut-off saws. V '^R'*!'^' 

Special patterns of solid tooth saws made to \„M^/ 

order. Fig. e. slotted rim 

INSERTED TOOTH SAWS 

The Chisel Point is the best form of inserted tooth for 
general mill use. No. 10 is used principally on the Pacific 
Coast. No. 16 for thin saws, re-sawing, etc. The American, 
Trenton, Prosser, Dunbar, and Goulding are styles formerly 
made by the American Saw Co. 

DISSTON STANDARD GAUGE 




14 



DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 



The Disston Gauge corresponds exactly with the Stubbs and 
Birmingham Gauges 

LIST OF EQUIVALENTS OF GAUGES 





Approximate 




Disston, 


American 




Gauge 


Fractional 


Millimeters 


Stubbs, or 


or Brown 


London 




Part of Inch 




Birmingham 


& Sharp 







22/64 Scant 




.340 


.32495 


.340 


1 


19/64 Full 


7.62 


.300 


. 28930 


.300 


2 


9/32 Full 


7.21 


.284 


.25763 


.284 


3 


17/64 Scant 


6.57 


.259 


. 22942 


.259 


4 


15/64 Full 


6.04 


.238 


.20431 


.238 


5 


7/32 Full 


5.59 


.220 


.18194 


.220 


6 


13/64 Scant 


5.18 


.203 


. 16202 


.203 


7 


3/16 Scant 


4.57 


.180 


.14428 


.180 


8 


11/64 Scant 


4.19 


.165 


.12849 


.165 


9 


9/64 Full 


3.76 


.148 


. 11443 


.148 


10 


1/8 Full 


3.40 


.134 


. 10189 


.134 


11 


1/8 Scant 


3.05 


.120 


.09074 


.120 


12 


7/64 


2.77 


.109 


.08081 


.109 


13 


3/32 Full 


2.41 


.095 


.07196 


.095 


14 


5/64 Full 


2.10 


.083 


.06408 


.083 


15 


5/64 Scant 


1.82 


.072 


.05706 


.072 


16 


1/16 Full 


1.65 


.065 


.05082 


.065 


17 


1/16 Scant 


1.47 


.058 


.04525 


.058 


18 


3/64 Full 


1.24 


.049 


.04030 


.049 


19 


3/64 Scant 


1.06 


.042 


.03589 


.040 


20 


1/32 Full 


.89 


.035 


.03196 


.035 


21 




.81 


.032 


.02846 


.0315 


22 




.71 


.028 


.025347 


.0295 


23 




.64 


.025 


.022571 


.027 


24 




.56 


.022 


.0201 


.025 


25 




.51 


.020 


.0179 


.023 


26 




.46 


.018 


.01594 


.0205 


27 


1/64 


.41 


.016 


.014195 


.01875 


28 




- .36 


.014 


.012641 


.0165 


29 




.33 


.013 


.011257 


.0155 


30 




.30 


.012 


.010025 


.01375 


31 






.010 


.008928 


.01225 


32 






.009 


.00795 


.01125 



15 



DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 



HOW TO ORDER CIRCULAR SAWS 

When ordering circular saws, the following directions should 
be given explicitly: 
Diameter in inches. 
Thickness or gauge at centre. 
Thickness or gauge at rim. 




Fig. 8-A. LEFT-HAND SAW 




Fig. 8-B. RIGHT-HAND SAW 

Right- or left-hand (see above illustrations) 
Rip or cross-cut tooth. 

16 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



Style of tooth (see illustrations on page 13). 

Solid or inserted tooth. 

Number of teeth. 

Size of mandrel hole. 

Size of pin holes. 

Distance from centre to centre of pin holes. 

Greatest feed at each revolution, in inches. 

Kind of timber to be sawed. 

Number of revolutions per minute. 

Horse power of engine. 

Daily output of mill. 

All stock saws, 40 inches in diameter and larger, have 2-inch 
mandrel holes and %-inch tug-pin holes, 3 inches from centre 
to centre. If a different arrangement is wanted, send full pattern 
of holes. 

HINTS FOR OPERATION OF CIRCULAR SAWS 

A GOOD SAW 

Disston Saws stand at the head of the market on their 
merits, and although they are unequaled for quality of material, 
workmanship, toughness, and elasticity, it is quite important 
that they should be adapted to the speed of the mill and the 
kinds of timber they have to cut. Upon the saws, to a large 
extent, depends the capacity. 

When in need of saws write us giving a full description of the 
mill and timber they are wanted to cut, and we will guarantee 
to furnish saws adapted to the requirements. 

To secure proper quality and quantity of output, saws 
must be resharpened before they become so dull that they 
''drag and pull." The time spent in keeping saws properly set 
and sharpened is most important, and is one of the best invest- 
ments connected with a woodworking establishment. 

17 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



SOME OF THE CAUSES OF COMPLAINTS AGAINST 
SAWS AND SAW MAKERS 

Insufficient power to maintain regular speed. 

Too thin a saw for the class of work required. 

Not enough or too many teeth for the amount of feed carried. 

Weak or imperfect collars. 

Collars not large enough in diameter. 

Ill-fitting mandrel and pin holes. 

Uneven setting and filing. 

Points of teeth filed with a ^'lead/' — not square across. 

Not enough set for proper clearance. 

Too much pitch or hook of teeth. 

Irregular and shallow gullets. 

Out of round and consequently out of balance. 

A sprung mandrel, or lost motion in mandrel boxes. 

A carriage track neither level nor straight. 

Carriage not properly alligned with saw. 

Lost motion in carriage trucks. 

Heating of journal next to saw. 

Guide-pins too tight or not properly adjusted. 

Backs of teeth too high for clearance. 

Attempting to run too long without sharpening. 



SETTING THE CARRIAGE TRACK AND HUSK OR 

SAW FRAME 

It is very essential to good work that the foundation of the 
mill should be amply strong to withstand the shocks to which 
it is subjected in turning logs. The track stringers should be 
good sound heart lumber, preferably Yellow Pine, as this is a 
firm wood and will resist moisture. The size of the stringers 
should not be less than 8'' x 8'' and as few pieces as possible 
to make up the necessary length. These stringers should be 
set perfectly level and parallel with the mill house and gained 
into the girders and joists of the mill floor or foundation timbers. 

18 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



They should be secured by keys and bolts so that they will 
not change position when logs are rolled against the head blocks. 
The track irons, particularly the V side, should be firmly bolted 
to the stringer and when finished be perfectly straight and 
level. 

It is quite as important that the saw frame should be firmly 
secured to its place as that it should be level and solid, for the 
vibration and strain are of such a nature that the frame will 
change position quickly unless it is very firmly secured. The 
slightest change would make a vast difference in the running 
of the saw and necessitate relining. When putting in the husk 
stringers, use well seasoned wood and put them down in such 
a manner that they cannot possibly change their position, 
then find the position of the husk on the stringers and fasten 
down securely with through bolts. 

LINING THE SAW WITH THE CARRIAGE 

The amount of ^^lead" required for circular saws should 
be the least amount that will keep the saw in the cut and pre- 
vent it heating at the centre. If the lead into the cut is too 
much, the saw will heat on the rim; if the lead out of the cut 
is too much, the saw will heat at centre. We, therefore, give 
the amount generally used, which is one-eighth of an inch in 
twenty feet. No two saws have exactly the same lead. 

Of the various methods used for lining a saw with the car- 
riage, we give what we think will be the most easily understood: 
First, see that the mandrel is set perfectly level, so that the saw 
hangs plumb and true when screwed between the collars, and 
is flat on the log side. Draw a line running ten feet each way 
from centre of mandrel and parallel with the V track. Fasten 
a stick to the head-block so that it comes up to the line at the 
end in front of the saw. Run the carriage forward the twenty 
feet, move the rear end of line one-eighth of an inch away 
from former parallel position, then slew the end of the mandrel 
either forward or backward until it is exactly at right angles 
to the new position of the line, and the saw parallel with this 
line. 

All end play must be taken out of the mandrel and carriage 
trucks when lining a saw to the carriage. The track must be 
laid solid, level, and true, so that the carriage will run straight 
and smooth. 

19 



DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 



COLLARS FOR SAWS 

For a perfect running saw it is indispensable to have the 
collars and stem of mandrel true and well fitting. Any im- 
perfection in these points is multiplied as many times as the 
saw is larger than the collars; they should fit exactly. 

For large saws we prefer collars that have a perfect bearing 
of about an inch on the outer rim. The part under the rim 
should be recessed, as a recessed collar gives better contact with 
the saw than a flat collar. Examine the collars carefully to 
see if they are true; if not, have them made so. Also be sure 
that the stem of the mandrel fits the hole nicely and offers no 
obstruction to the saw slipping up to and against the fast collar 
easily. We advocate the use of six inch collars for portable 
and semi-portable mills. Collars for steam feed mills should 
be larger. 

Test the saw with a straight edge, and if it is found true, 
place it on the mandrel and tighten up the collars with a wrench. 
Test again with a straight edge to see if the shape of the 
blade has been altered. If the saw is not true, the fault lies 
in the collars and will be likely to damage the saw. The best 
results cannot be obtained from the mill until the defects are 
remedied. 

We finish all our circular saws by a process which insures 
each side of the saw plate being perfectly true throughout its 
entire surface. By this invaluable process, every particle of 
uneveness is removed. The saw never requires packing (pro- 
viding the collars are true), and all the trouble which has hitherto 
perplexed the sawyer, in this particular, is removed. 

ADJUSTING SAW TO MILL 

See that the saw slips up to the fast collar freely and hangs 
straight and plumb when tightened up ; that the mandrel is 
level, in proper line with the carriage; and that it fits in its 
boxes as neatly as possible without heating. For when the 
mandrel heats, by transmission, the saw will heat also and 
thus expand in the centre, which will make it work badly, 
injure, and perhaps, ruin it. We do not warrant a saw to run 
on a mandrel that heats. While it is possible to make a saw 
that will admit of a certain known degree of expansion, never- 
theless a heating mandrel always will give more or less trouble. 

20 



DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 



To get the best results from a mill this must be overcome. 
(See article on mandrels for circular saws, page 80.) 

Take up all end play or lateral motion in the mandrel as 
the grain of the wood will draw or push the mandrel endwise, 
no matter how well the saw is kept. See that the carriage 
track is level, straight, sohd, and in proper hne, also that rolls 
or trucks have no end play. Keep all gum or sawdust off the 
tracks. 




SAW GUIDE 

In the operation of large circular saws the guide block and 
correct adjustment of guide pins play a very important part. 
As all the sawing is done 

above the center of the saw x^,.-e^i^-- ^ 

it is essential that the guide t 

block and pins should be as 

high and close to the log as -'H™h». 

possible. See cut. 

Some sawyers have the 
guide blocks set low to allow 
knots and crooks in and on 
the logs to pass over the 
block without striking — to 
prevent disturbing its posi- 
tion. This is a mistake, for 
the lower the block and pins 
the less support they give 
the saw and the easier the 
saw is deflected from a 
straight line. 

The guide block should be set and securely bolted to the 
saw frame as high as possible to allow the nose of the head 
blocks to pass over the top of the guide block freely. 

There is a small percentage of logs that are so crooked or 
have such large projecting knots that there would be danger 
of the crooks or knots striking the guide block. Logs of this 
character, usually can be placed on the carriage in a position 
to make a first cut safely. This cut removes all, or a portion 
of the crooks and knots. In subsequent cuts no part of the 
log would be below the level of the head block. 



Fig. 9. This shows the correct position 
of the guide block. 



21 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



SPEED OF SAWS 

This is a very important point for consideration, as a hun- 
dred revolutions, more or less, will always make a difference 
in the running of the saw. We can adjust the tension of 
saws to overcome a slight variation in speed, provided full 
information is given with the order. However we would 
advise a uniform speed at all times. Our experience has been 
that saws work better when run at a uniform speed even if it 
is necessary to reduce materially the number of revolutions 
below that given in the table, than to have a variable speed. 
If the power is too light to maintain the standard speed, run 
the engine at a higher regular speed; put a larger diameter 
receiving pulley on the mandrel, and the results will be better 
both as to quality and capacity. This will be much better than 
wide variations in speeds, even if the speed, as previously stated, 
does fall below that given in the table. Regularity is most 
desirable. Following is a table of speeds: 

SPEED OF SAWS RUNNING 10,000 FT. PER MINUTE 

ON THE RIM 

72 in., 530 revolutions per min. 36 in., 1,080 revolutions per min. 

68 "560 " " 32 " 1,225 

64 « 600 " " 28 " 1,400 " " 

60 " 640 " " 24 " 1,630 

56 " 700 " " 20 " 1,960 

52 « 750 " " 16 " 2,450 

48 « 815 " " 12 " 3,260 

44 « 890 " " 10 " 3,920 " " 

40 « 980 " " 8 " 4,600 " " 

For portable mills using saws 44 to 60 inches in diameter, having available 
12 to 15 H. P. to drive saw, we advise a speed of 300 to 350 R. P. M., 18 to 
20 H. P. 350 to 400 R. P. M., over 20 to 25 H. P. 400 to 450 R. P. M., over 
25 to 30 H. P. 450 to 500 R. P. M., over 30 to 35 H. P. 500 to 550 R. P. M., 
over 35 to 50 H. P. 550 to 600 R. P. M. 

RULES FOR CALCULATING SPEED, ETC. 

PROBLEM 1. The diameter of driving and driven pulleys and the 
speed of the driver being given, find the speed of the driven. 

RULE. Multiply the diameter of the driver by its number of revolutions, 
and divide the product by the diameter of the driven; the quotient will be 
the number of revolutions of the driven. 

PROBLEM 2. The diameter and revolutions of the driven pulley bemg 
given, find the diameter of the driver. 

RULE. Multiply the revolutions of the driven by its diameter and 
divide the product by the revolutions of the driving shaft; the quotient 
will be the diameter of the driver. 

22 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 




SPEED INDICATOR 



Working parts 
encased. 

Efficient. 

Indispensable. 

Millmen and Sawyers should know the correct speed of all 
saws and machinery operated by them. It is very important 
that exact speeds be given with all orders for large circular 
saws. We guarantee the accuracy of the indicator illustrated 
above and advocate its use. 

THIN AND EXTRA THIN LARGE SAWS 

As we have said in the preceding pages, all saws and saw- 
mill machinery must be kept in the proper shape to obtain the 
best results. This is especially necessary in running thin saws. 
While a thick or standard gauge saw will give very fair results 
where only medium skill in the management of saw and mill 
is used, a thin saw will fall far short of giving fair results under 
the same methods and management. A thin saw cannot reason- 
ably be expected to stand as much crowding as a thick one and 
requires more skill and better appliances to give good results. 

It is always necessary to have enough set in a saw to give 
sufficient clearance, which means enough to prevent the log 
from rubbing on the body of saw. 

In the usual gauges of large circular saws, say 7, 8, and 9, 
used in the ordinary manner on the average feed and lumber, 
3/32 of an inch equally divided (3/64 on each side of saw) is about 
the least clearance that should be used, except in hard wood 
and frozen timber, when less clearance is necessary. A thin 
saw requires just as much clearance as any other saw, conse- 
quently, in proportion to thickness, the thin saw has the most 
strain to bear. For this reason alone the best skill and mill are 
required to run a thin saw successfully. We do not wish to 
convey the idea that we do not make thin saws, but simply 
desire our customers, who contemplate installing them, to 
appreciate the differences in working between thick and thin 

23 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



saws. The difference in thickness between 8 gauge and 10 
gauge is 1/32 of an inch. The set for clearance of each being 
the same, 1/32 of an inch is all it is possible to save in kerf. Be- 
tween an 8 gauge and 11 gauge the difference is 1/32 of an inch 
full. Hence the saving in the instances above is very small — so 
small, in fact, that in nine cases out of ten it is offset by reduc- 
tion in capacity or in poorly manufactured lumber. 

As to saving in power, the difference in nineteen cases out 
of twenty is not in favor of the thinner saw. Being so much 
lighter, it will deviate from its line much easier. Any deviation, 
ever so slight in the length of the cut, will consume by friction 
all the power saved by the difference in kerf. 

These are plain facts that any man who knows the gauges 
can figure out for himself, and we advise every mill man to 
study the subject well before ordering extra thin saws. If the 
mill, skill of employees, and value of timber is such as to justify 
extra thin saws, then have them by all means, and we claim that 
our saws, in workmanship, toughness, elasticity, and standing- 
up quality of steel are unequaled, whether thick, thin, or extra 
thin. 

In ordering, please note that thin saws require more teeth 
than heavier saws to do the same class of sawing. This equalizes 
the strain on the rim and prevents springing of the teeth. 

Regularity of speed is desirable with all saws, but particu- 
larly so with thin ones, as they depend more than the others 
upon the velocity to hold them up to their work. In extra 
thin saws, one sixth more speed than given in the table will 
be advantageous. 



24 



INSTRUCTIONS 

FOR SETTING AND SHARPENING 

(OR FITTING) CIRCULAR SAWS 

The best saw that could be made would not manufacture 
lumber in a satisfactory manner, nor be safe from possible 
vital injury unless kept properly set and sharpened. It is 
therefore very necessary that all saws should be kept in the 
best possible condition. The contrary is too often the case. 
The most general cause of trouble is a dull 
or improperly fitted saw. 

There are two styles of ''fitting" rip 
saws; the ''swage-set and square dress/' 
and the "spring-set and briar or slightly 
beveled dress." 

The swage-set is best adapted to and 
recommended for mills of moderately large 
feed and capacity, while the spring-set and 
briar dress is best adapted to mills of light 
power and capacity. The reason for this is 
found in the fact that one tooth of the 
swage-set and square dress style practically 
equals in capacity two teeth of the spring- ^ 
set and briar dress pattern. It thus follows 
■ that up to its limit of capacity a saw with 

the spring-set and briar dress fitting will ^"^ 
Fig. 11. Spring run easier than a saw containing the same Fig. 12. swaged 
set briar dress number of teeth that are swage-set and *^®*^ 
square-dressed. 
To properly fit up a rip saw with swage-set : first see 
that the saw is perfectly round. No saw will give good 
results if it is "out of round." Each tooth in the saw should 
do the same amount of cutting. If the saw has long and 
short teeth, the long tooth will be subjected to a strain that 
should be equally divided between two, three, or four teeth. 

25 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



This renders the saw hable to accident, and at best largely reduces 
the capacity of the mill and turns out poorly manufactured lumber. 

If the saw is not round it should be made so by ''jointing," 
until all the teeth are of the same length. In the absence of 
a saw-sharpening machine, the jointing can be accomplished 
best by holding a piece of grindstone against the top of the 
teeth while the saw revolves at a medium or moderate speed. 
If a piece of grindstone is not available, take a piece of soft 
emery wheel or any other kind of stone that will grind the long 
teeth down to a common length. 

After jointing, file all the teeth to a keen point, taking care 
merely to file out the marks of the stone, thus leaving all the 




Fig. 13. Gauge by which to file and regulate the shape of the saw teeth of large saws 

teeth of the same length, and as nearly as possible the same 
shape. The teeth cannot be swaged or upset to advantage 
unless filed sharp and to the proper shape. To do this without 
a gauge requires considerable practice and experience. A 
gauge, like that shown in the illustration, is furnished gratui- 
tously upon application and one is included with every swage. 
The next operation is ''swaging" the teeth for clearance, 
which, under ordinary conditions, should be two gauges on 
either side of each tooth. Taking for granted that the back 
of the tooth is in good shape, the swaging must be done from 
the front or under side. This gives the proper "rake" and 
saves unnecessary reduction in the diameter of the saw. 

26 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 




Swaging consists, first, of holding the convex side of the 
swage or up-set on the tooth, striking it half a dozen or more 
firm hammer-blows until the tooth is spread to the desired 
width as shown on section of tooth H, Fig. 38, page 45; then use 
the straight or flat jaws. By moving the swage from side to side, 
two or three blows will flatten or square up the tooth, and bring 
the corners out full, as shown on section of tooth G, page 45. 

In swaging, care must be taken to hold the swage at such 
an angle that the lines or contour of the backs of the teeth are not 
changed as the swaging marks should show principally on the fronts 
of the teeth where practically all the filing will be done. The 

operator must also be careful 
not to hold the swage at ma- 
terially different angles as 
this would have a tendency 
to fracture the teeth. It 
would also make the saw 
badly out of round by driv- 
es- W M ^^^ some teeth down and 
C R 11 others up. 
(^ H It Another method of swag- 
ing is by means of the 
Eccentric Swage, the eccen- 
tric dies 
of which 
exert a 
powerful 
pressure 
which 
rolls and 
spreads 
the edge 
of the 
tooth. As 
the tool is 
mechanic- 
al, every 
tooth is 
given a 
uniform 
swage. 



SECTIONAL VIEW SHOWING 

MANNER IN WHICH THE TOOTH 

IS SPREAD OR SWAGED 




Fig. 14. Disston Eccentric Swage No. 0. Adapted for circular saws from 6 to 12 gauge in thickness 

27 



DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 



Following swaging, the saw must be jointed again and each 
tooth then filed or ground until brought to a keen point. If 
filed by hand, due care must be taken to file square across the 
teeth so that all cutting-edges will be at right angles to the 
side of saw. If the saw is not filed square it will 'lead" in or 
out of the log according to the side of the saw bearing the high 
corners. High corners on the log side of a saw will cause it to run 
into the log, and vice versa. It is also important that the same 
''hook" or pitch line and general shape of teeth be maintained. 

The next operation consists of "side-filing" which simply 
means bringing all the points to one uniform width. It is very 
difficult to swage or set a saw so accurately that all the teeth 
are exactly the same width. As a slight variation in the widths of 

the cutting points of a saw will not only cause 

it to work badly but will make rough lumber, 

it is therefore desirable that all the points of 
the teeth be made exactly the same width, 
which is readily accomplished by the use of 
the Disston Side File. After this the corners 
should be relieved backward from the cutting 
edge. This is particularly true when at work 
in frozen timber. 

This completes the operations of setting 
and sharpening, or fitting the saw, and if 
the work is done according to these direc- 
tions and the saw is properly operated on 
a correctly adjusted mill, it will saw easy 
and true until dull again. However, it 
should be re-sharpened before it is allowed 
to get so dull as to show a tendency to pull 
extra hard, leave its true line, or heat up. 
There is no economy in attempting to run 
a saw too long without sharpening. Many 
hours time have been wasted and many 
saws ruined through the false economy of 
not sharpening them often enough. We 
have never seen a saw mill where it was 
not true economy to sharpen saws from two 
to four times in a full day's sawing. A saw, 
properly swaged or set, will stand from two 
to five filings before it needs re-swaging or 
re-setting. 
28 




Fig. 15 

DISSTON IMPROVED 

SIDE FILE 

Made in three sizes 

This file must be adjusted 
by means of the set screw 
to conform to the width of 
set desired. The jam-nuts 
are for the purpose of secur- 
ing the set screws in the 
desired position. When the 
side file has been properly 
adjusted it must be held in 
position against the saw- 
blade, by means of the clips, 
the points of the set-screws 
only touching the blade. 
Each tooth in succession 
must be filed until the set of 
tooth conforms to the gauge 
of the set-screws. Thus all 
uneven or overhanging 
corners will be removed. 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 




Fig. 16. DISSTON SAMSON SAW-SET 



The operation of 
fitting a ' 'spring-set," 
or briar-dress rip saw 
is the same as the fore- 
going in all respects 
except that the swaging is omitted and the points of the teeth 
are bent alternately right and left with a ''Samson" or similar 
setting tool to give the necessary clearance to each side of the 
saw. Then all the teeth are filed straight through or square to 
the side of the saw on the 
fronts. Each alternate tooth 
is slightly beveled on the 

back as in Fig. 17. rig. 17. To show bevel on backs of teeth. 



SHARPENING CUT-OFF SAWS 




Fig. 18. Correct "fitting" of circular cross-cut saw. 

Circular cut-off saws are fitted the same as briar-dress rip 
saws, except that the teeth are given more bevel both front and 
back as shown in Fig. 18. 

There are several different kinds of tools on the market for 
setting small circular saws, but the most efficient one we know 
of is our circular saw setting-stake, with which tool each tooth 
is given practically the same amount of set. 

Probably half the saws sent back to the factory for repairs 
have been injured or ruined through neglect on the part of 
the owners or operators, who really know how to fit saws 
properly, but who put off the re-setting and sharpening of 
their saws as long as they can force the saw through a cut of 

29 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 




any kind. Other men, through lack of experience do not know 
how to ''fit" saws. The result is the same in either case. After 
wasting time and lumber enough to pay a careful and capable 

fitter or sawyer, who 
would without injury to 
the saw or unnecessary 
wear to appliances turn 
out the maximum amount 
of well manufactured 
lumber for the power 
available, the careless or 
inexperienced men must 
send their saws to the 
factory for repairs or 
purchase a new saw. 
Due regard for a few^ 
simple rules would have 
saved the saw, a quan- 
tity of lumber, and a 
great deal of lost time. 
The saw is like a 
razor or any other cutting tool. It will not work unless it is kept 
in order. An attempt to force it when not in order means a 
broken saw or a repair bill. 

NOTE: Do not file square corners in the gullets of the 
saw as it prevents proper circulation of saw-dust and is very 
liable to cause breakage as shown at ''D" in Fig. 20. This 



Fig. 19 

DISSTON IMPROVED ADJUSTABLE 

SETTING-STAKE FOR CIRCULAR SAWS 

This valuable tool can be adjusted to set any saw from 
six to thirty inches in diameter. The cone "A" is 
moved in or out to suit the diameter of the saw, and 
raised or lowered, as may be required. The movable 
anvil "B" is made of hardened steel, and some portions 
of the face being beveled more than others, the oper- 
ator can regulate the amount of set as desired. 




Fig. 20. Crack resulting from square gullet, shown at "D". 

30 



DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 



is particularly true when the teeth are dull, or in frosty weather. 
Our warranty does not cover saws broken from sharp corners filed 
in gullets. 

It will be observed in this illustration, Fig. 20, that in addi- 
tion to having sharp corners in the gullets, teeth ''A" and ''B" 
are very dull; tooth '^C" shows how the points and gullets 
should be dressed. The gullets should be kept rounded out, 
either with a gu'mmer or a file. 




Fig. 21. Teeth properly shaped for soft wood 




Fig. 22. Teeth properly shaped for hard wood 



Fig. 21. shows proper shape of tooth for cross-cutting soft 
wood. Fig. 22 shows the tooth best adapted to cutting hard 
wood, space of teeth or distance from point to point being 
governed by conditions. 



31 



DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 




Cut-off saws, with the front of the tooth undercut into a 
round gullet, are the best (see Fig. 23). If the teeth are 
kept in this form, less time will be required in filing, and 

the bad results from 
running a dull saw 
will be prevented. Use 
as little set as possi- 
ble. File as soon as 
the saw becomes dull, 
thus saving time and 
power, reducing the 
strain and liability of 
breakage of the saw. 
We can furnish 
cut-off saws with 
rounded or undercut 
gullets as shown above 
Fig. 23. The best tooth for cut-off saws. and give any dcsired 

amount of rake or space of teeth. 

The great loss, caused by breakage of circular cross-cut or 
cut-off saws, to the mill man and manufacturer of saws induces 
us to call particular attention to the general neglect in the keep- 
ing of these saws in order for the work they have to perform. 
The same care is not given to cut-off saws that is given to the 
larger saws for rip- 
ping lumber. 

Nearly every 
case of broken cut- 
off saws that has 
come to our notice, 
has been caused by 
the careless manner 
in which they have 
been fi 1 ed o r 
gummed. If the 
time, labor, and 
files consumed in 
filing the long bevel 
down the backs and 




Fig. 24. Correct and incorrect bevel. 



fronts of teeth, were used in filing the gullets down with a round 
file, or cutting them out carefully with a round face emery wheel, 
many saws would be saved and much less power consumed. 

32 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



Filing long bevels on the teeth forms square notches in the 
gullets, which not only cause cracks to start, but also prevent 
free circulation of saw dust. See Fig. 24, tooth D. 

The bevel on cross-cut teeth should never extend into the 
gullets. In fact only a small portion of the tooth from the 
point needs beveling. The remainder of the tooth and gullets 
should be dressed straight across, as shown in Fig. 24, tooth E. 
In heavy cutting the front of the tooth should be filed with very 
Httle bevel and the bevel on the back of the tooth should be 
increased to compensate for the lack of bevel on the front. 
This will prevent much of the lateral strain and chattering 
caused when the teeth are forced out of line into the sides of 
the cut. Saws, particularly if they are dull, are frequently 
broken from this cause. 

SAWS FOR COLD WEATHER USE 

As many saws are broken in winter, the greatest care should 
be taken to prevent any undue strain. Keep the points out 
full, square, and sharp, or the saw will dodge out of the cut. 
This is particularly true in slabbing, as the corners on the log 
side do the most cutting and soon get dull in sawing knotty 
frozen timber. Use no more set than is absolutely necessary. 
Have the teeth widest at the extreme points, but do not have 
them weak. Taper the set nicely from point to back. Sharp 
corners should never be filed in the gullets as cracks are sure 
to start from such misuse of the saw, particularly in cold 
weather. 

SHARPENING AND GUMMING WITH 
EMERY WHEELS 

In sharpening or gumming saws with emery wheels always 
use a good, free-cutting wheel, and never put so much pressure 
on it or crowd it so fast that the teeth are heated to such an 
extent they become blue. For when teeth are blued, glazed, 
or case-hardened by the emery wheel, they are apt to break or 
crumble in the cut or the next time they are swaged. Joint 
the emery wheel occasionally to retain the shape of its face 
and to remove glaze. 

When gumming, it is best to gum around the saw several 
times instead of finishing each tooth at one operation. By 

33 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



going over the teeth several times, they are less liable to case- 
harden or blue, and a more uniform gullet is obtained. After 
gumming, it is advisable to file all around the saw, taking care 
to remove the fash or burr left on the edges, and all glazed 
or hard spots. Gumming and sharpening with the emery 
wheel will cause the saw to ''let down" or lose its tension much 
quicker than the use of the file or burr-gummer. The emery 
wheel heats and expands the rim of saw, putting it in the shape 
generally termed by mill-men ''buckled," which makes it appear 
loose and limber and causes it to run "snakey" in the cut. 
Many saws are condemned just from this cause and thrown aside 
as worn out, when by proper work and hammering they can 
be made as good as new saws of the same size. 

In sending us old saws for repairs mark plainly on the 
case from whom they come. Write us full information about 
the work to be done. We will furnish repair blanks on request. 
We will guarantee to put as good and durable tension in the 
saws as they had originally. 



34 



DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 



TRAMMEL FOR CIRCULAR SAW TEETH 




Fig. 25. Trammel in position on saw. 

The above illustration represents a device for laying out 
the teeth of circular saws and keeping them in order. By its 
use the teeth can be kept in proper shape and regular in depth, 
and an equal amount of pitch can be given to the front of each 
tooth. 

To rod A is attached chuck B, which holds a steel point 
for marking a circle for the bottom of the teeth. If all the 
teeth are on this circle, they will be equal in depth. The strip 
of steel C can be set at any distance between the centre and 
the edge of the saw, and it will give the same pitch to the front 
of each tooth. The ordinary pitch is that which is obtained 
by placing the steel strip at a distance of three-fifths from 
the centre towards the edge of the saw-plate. There is a diver- 
sity of opinion concerning the proper pitch to be given to the 

35 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



fronts of teeth, — knotty timber requires less than clear tim- 
ber, — with light power and light feed more can be used. The 
pitch can be increased by moving the steel strip nearer to the 
rim of the saw, but should the teeth become weakened, the 
backs or tops of the teeth should be strengthened, or they will 
either break or chatter in the work. 



GULLET-TOOTH CIRCULAR SAW 




Fig. 26 

By reference to the above illustration, it will be observed 
that the back or point-line of each tooth is the continuation 
of the spiral lines Z, and the sharpening is done mainty by the 
reduction of the gullet or throat only. This is readily accom- 
plished by the use of our patent gummers. (See page 41.) 

The course pursued by this cutter is spiral, and while it 
is in the act of reducing the front or throat of tooth Z), it is 
prolonging the back or point-line of tooth C. The illustration 
represents a two-inch tooth or gullet. The saw B is the saw 
A worn down. When the saw has been reduced on the centre 
line from G to F, it has been worn away six inches. Yet this 
same saw has presented a cutting surface on spiral line Z, from 
G to Y, — a distance of twenty-four inches. This is only one of 

36 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 




the advantages claimed for our patent gullet-tooth. The throat 
or gullet, being chambered out on a half circle, forms a larger 
receptacle or chamber for dust, and thus a one-and-a-half-inch 
tooth of this pattern will keep a saw as free from choking as a 
two-inch tootji of the ordinary shape. 

The saving of the saw-plate by the use of a smaller tooth is 
evident to the most casual observer. 

In sharpening, a saving in time and files is effected by 
taking a good, deep, full cut, instead of a light, scraping one. 
A tooth becomes dull on its face in proportion to the depth 
of cut taken at each revolution of the saw. For instance, when 
each tooth cuts a thirty-second of " 

an inch, it takes thirty-two teeth \ 
to cut one inch, whereas when each ' 
tooth cuts one-sixteenth of an inch, 
it takes only sixteen teeth to cut the 
same amount. In other words, the 
fibre or grain of the lumber has to 
be broken thirty-two times in one 
instancle, and only sixteen times in 
the other. 

When the tooth starts to break 
the fibre one-sixteenth of an inch " --_, 

in the log, it will do it with nearlv ^^g 27. FlUng back on the clearance 
, ' 1 ^' line 

as much ease and consume very 

little more power than if the cut were only a thirty-second of an 
inch per tooth. Of course one tooth, in this example, becomes 
dull for one-sixteenth of an inch under the point, and the other 
for only one thirty-second of an inch. However, to bring up 
one tooth consumes nearly as much saw-plate, time, and files 

as the other. It is easy to give too little 
or too much feed. Judgment should be used 
in this as in everything else. The greatest 
amount of feed that the saw and power 
will readily take care of is the best feed 
for the saw. 

On tooth. Fig. 27, A A are the original 
lines of the tooth, dotted line B shows where 
the point first wears, dotted line CCC shows 
how the tooth should be filed back on the 
clearance line. Too frequently, on account 
of the long surface to be filed, operators file 

37 




Fig. 28. Showing old and 
gullet style tooth 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



the top of the tooth only as represented by the dotted line D. 
It is plain to be seen that by filing back on the dotted line CCC 
the saw has been reduced in diameter only from dotted line 
E to F, while by filing from the top of the tooth the reduction 
will be as shown by dotted lines from E to D. 



\a 






Fig. 29. Illustration of tooth after cutting 300,000 feet of lumber 

This shows that by filing on top, — the incorrect method, — 
five times as much of the saw has been worn away as by proper 
filing. This difficulty is overcome by the use of the gullet 
tooth, as represented by cut Fig. 28. 

Fig. 28 shows the outlines of both the straight tooth and the 
gullet tooth. By using the latter only a small space is left to 
file and gives no excuse for filing on top. 

Fig, 29 represents a section of our gullet-tooth saw 
(kept in order by a chambering machine) after cutting 
300,000 feet of hemlock lumber. Dotted line D and point A 
show the original diameter of the saw. Dotted line E and point 
C show the saw after cutting the above amount of lumber, 
reducing the length of teeth only three-sixty-fourths of an 
inch, as can be seen plainly between dotted lines D and E. 
According to this, a fifty-inch saw will cut 6,000,000 feet of 

38 



DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 



lumber and only reduce the diameter of the saw to forty-eight 
inches, showing the great advantage derived by using our 
Patent Gullet Tooth Saw and Gummer. 

The accompanying illustration, Fig 30, shows the condition of 
the teeth of a large circular saw sent to our factory to be gummed. 
The owners had been using some gummer upon the saw, which 
actually did more harm than good. As shown by line B the 

ragged throat so obstructed the 
circulation of saw dust that the 
owners were compelled to send 
the saw to the factory to be 
g^mmed out. Dotted line C 
shows the condition the gullet 
would have been in had our 
chambering machinesbeenused. 
Figs. 31 and 32 show, by per- 
iphery lines, the difference in 
the wear of the saw. It is of 
the greatest importance to file 
back on these clearance lines. 
The point on the face of the 
tooth is very small. The 
smaller it is the less filing it takes to keep it sharp. One stroke 
of the file on this point will effect more than ten strokes on the 




/ 



'^-^ 



Fig. 30 

BAD CHAMBERING 

Illustration reduced to one-half actual size 




Fig. 31. Teeth for soft wood 



face of a tooth that has to be filed from the point to the 
bottom of the gullet. When there is so little point to keep 




Fig. 32. Teeth for hard wood 

39 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



back, it will be found easier to sharpen the saw from the face 
rather than to file from the top, and a saving in the diameter of 
saw is effected. 

When we know the kind of lumber to be sawn, the speed, 
feed, and capacity of mill, we make the teeth best suited for 
the work. This saves waste of saw and the extra time it requires 
to keep unsuitable teeth in order. For instance, for one-inch 
feed, we do not recommend over twenty-four teeth and would 
not (where our gummer is used) give over one-ar^-a-quarter- 
inch depth of tooth; for a five-inch feed, not less than fifty 




Fig. 33 



teeth, and depth to correspond; for a three-inch feed, we would 
give thirty-two teeth. 

The gullets of the saw should be chambered out, or gummed 
as soon as the teeth have been worn back enough to allow the 
file to strike the back of the chamber as shown in Fig. 33, tooth 
A. Tooth B shows full gullet. 



40 



TOOLS FOR FITTING CIRCULAR 

SAWS 

VICTOR SELF-FEEDING SAW GUMMER 




Fig. 34. Victor Gummer, adjusted to gum circular saws 

The Victor is made of the very best material, the hghter parts 
being of malleable iron and the shaft of steel. This makes the 
tool lighter, and at the same time stronger, than other gummers. 
The Victor will gum all saws, from a small circular saw with a 
^-inch gullet, to the largest made, with a \]/2 inch gullet; 
also all mill, mulay, and cross-cut saws. The illustration shows 
the Victor gummer in position for work on a sixty-inch circular saw. 

Place the gummer on the saw with the feed- 
screw towards the front of the saw, the carriage 
drawn well back, and the cutter resting on the 
back of the tooth next to the gullet to be 
gummed. The feed-screw should point in the 
direction you wish the cutter to cut. When in 
position, clamp the machine to the saw by tight- 
ening the two clamp-screws at the bottom of 
the clamps. 




Fig. -35. Gummer 
Cutters for Victor 
saw gummer. 



41 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



Set the notch of the brass gauge over the point of the tooth 
and secure it by means of the screw. Then to adjust the gummer, 
so it will take the same position on each tooth, set the screw or 
"U' gauge down on the teeth. Throw the pawl into the ratchet- 
wheel on the cutter-shaft, which will prevent the cutter turning 
backwards while at work. The cutter is very liable to be broken 
if reversed while in the gullet. 

Stand behind the saw, try the crank and if it does not turn 
freely, back the cutter until it does; then throw the feed-pawl 
into the circular rack on the feed-screw and gum until the 
gullet is chambered to the required depth. 

Then set the stop that is under the cutter-shaft up to the 
rocking-lever to prevent the feed-pawl from turning the feed- 
screw. This will cause the feed to stop at this point and make 
all the gullets the same depth. The first tooth being gummed, 
throw out the feed-pawl and screw back the cutter to the start- 
ing point. Loosen the clamp-screws and move the gummer 
to the next tooth, placing the brass gauge on the point as before. 
Screw up the clamp-screws, throw in the feed-pawl, and gum 
until you reach the stop, which has been adjusted on the first 
tooth. 

If all the gauges and stops are properly adjusted on the 
first tooth, all the gullets will be of the same depth. If, when 
you first put the gummer in position, the feed-screw does not 
point in the direction you wish to gum, loosen four screws 
that hold the clamp to the circular plate and turn the plate 
until the feed-screw reaches the proper position. Then tighten 
the four screws and clamp the machine to the saw. The gum- 
mer can be set to gum at any angle from horizontal to perpen- 
dicular simply by turning the circular plate. 

We make three sizes of cutter-shafts for this gummer. The 
No. 1, or large shaft is the same diameter as is used in our 
No. 1 gummer, and is suitable for 1, IJ^^, l}i, 1^ and IJ^ inch 
cutters. 

The No. 2 or medium shaft is suitable for cutters j4, Vs, % 
and %-inch. 

The No. 3 or small shaft is made specially for ^-inch cutters. 

DOUBLE-GEARED NO. 1 SAW GUMMER 

Before using. the gummer see that the oil holes are clear. 
A few drops of oil will be sufficient for from three to five hours' 

42 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



use. After using the gummer remove the chips or turnings 
that accumulate back of the cutter. If allowed to remain 
they will cause trouble by getting into the working parts of 
the machine. Run the cutter back by means of screw G as 
far as necessary. Then place the machine on the saw, with 
the cutter close up in the chamber of the tooth to be gummed. 
If the teeth are regular and the same distance apart, start 
the cutter in any chamber; but if they are irregular, make 
them even by commencing in the smallest tooth. After gum- 
ming the saw a few times the teeth must become regular. E is 
a set screw to regulate the depth of gullet. Fasten the machine 



Including cutter-holder and three 
cutters of any of the following 
sizes, 1, lYs, IM. 1^. and IJ^ 
inches. When ordering, specify the 
size wanted. One-inch cutter is 
the smallest size that can be used 
on this gummer. 




Fig. 36. A chambering machine for circular saws 40 inches or more in diameter 



to the saw by means of the screws BB, and proceed to gum 
the first tooth. One of the points of the star being struck at 
each revolution, by a projection on the handle the cutter is 
fed steadily in until arrested by set screw E. Move the machine 
forward to the next tooth, after having run the cutter back 
and proceed as before until all the teeth are gummed. Should 
the gullet or chamber be worn smooth, and the cutter fail to 
bite, rough the gullet with a file. The cutter is arranged to 
slide on its axis. When one portion becomes dull, a new sharp 
cutting surface will be presented, by moving a washer from 

43 



DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 



one side of cutter to the other. Therefore continue to change 
the washers until the whole face of the cutter becomes dull. 

To take the cutter off the shaft, put the pin, hanging to the 
gummer, in the hole in the ratchet wheel. This is to keep the 
shaft from turning while unscrewing the nut, which has a left- 
hand thread. The hand wheel on the end of the feed screw, 
outside of the star, is to allow the operator to feed easily and 
gently with the hand when starting to cut rough gullets, until 
the cutter gets a bearing, when by tightening the jam-nut on 
the opposite side of the star, the machine is made self-feeding. 
The ratchet by which the cutter is moved effectually prevents 
any back motion. 

This gummer is a valuable machine, and should be in the 
hands of every mill-man. It saves power, files, and time, and is 
so easy to operate that any one of ordinary intelligence can 
be taught to use it. 



CUTTER GRINDER 




Fig. 37. Cutter grinder for holding the gummer cutter in position 
during process of sharpening 

To grind the cutters the stone should have a perfectly 
straight face and turn from the operator. Lower the adjustable 
frame of the grinder until the cutter touches the stone, then 
adjust the spring in proper position. When properly adjusted, 
the backs of the teeth of the cutters can be ground so that the 
cutting edge will be a little higher than the rest of the tooth, 
and the entire cutter round and sharp. 

Furnished with either No. 1, 2, or 3 (Pin) shaft. 

"CONQUEROR" SWAGE, JUMPER OR UPSET 

Trade Mark Registered U. S. Patent Office 

Swages, Jumpers, or Upsets are for the purpose of spreading 
the points of the teeth and for bringing out corners reduced by 
wear, thus saving time, saw, and files, if properly used. 

The teeth of a saw must be swaged to a sharp, keen edge. 
The bottom of the openings in the Conqueror are slotted. 

44 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



Therefore with this tool it is impossible to blunt or injure the 
fine cutting edge of the tooth, which is a frequent result with 
solid swages. One of the principal drawbacks in the manu- 
facture of solid swages is the difficulty experienced in hardening 
them properly at the bottom of the openings. This portion 
of the swage does all the work, and should be hardened in the 
most perfect manner. The Conqueror is hardened before the 
sleeve is driven on, and the hardening composition passes freely 
through the slots at the bottom of the openings, thus insuring 
an even and correct hardening in that portion of the swage 
where it most required. 





Fig. 38. No. 1 "Conqueror" Swage for large circular saws 

DIRECTIONS FOR USING THE CONQUEROR SWAGE 

File the tooth sharp to the shape of the gauge packed in 
each box, in order that the swage may operate on the point. 
Oil the point of the tooth, then apply the rounded or convex 
jaws of the swage — these take their bearings on the centre of 
the tooth, spreading and shaping it as shown in section ^'H" 
of the above sketch. 

Now apply the square or flat opening — this will square up 
the point of the tooth, as shown in section '^G" of the above 
sketch. 

If the first operation with both dies does not give sufficient 
spread, file the tooth again to fit the gauge and proceed as 
before. 

In swaging use a light hammer, and do not strike too heavy 
a blow. Oil the tooth frequently. 

Hold the swage in proper line (see position of swage in rela- 
tion to tooth in cut) so as not to drive the point of the tooth 
below the cutting line. 

The Conqueror Swage is made in seven different sizes to suit 
all thicknesses of saws. 

45 



DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 



MACHINE FOR SETTING CIRCULAR SAWS 




Fig. 39. Circular saw setting machine 

Aside from character of steel, temper, and workmanship, the 
successful operation of circular saws depends largely upon the 
manner in which saws are fitted. To obtain best results the teeth 
should be properly and evenly set. This machine does the work 
perfectly, insuring easy running and smooth cutting. 

This tool is adjustable for saws from b" to 24" diameter. 

The force of the blow from the hammer can be adjusted to 
any thickness of saw. 

The set of each tooth must necessarily be uniform, as the ham- 
mer strikes every blow with equal force at the same angle. It is 
adjustable to give heavy, medium, or light set, and will do more 
and better work than any other machine of its kind. 




Fig. 40. BORTHWICK'S STATIONARY SAW SHARPENING MACHINE or emery wheel 
gummer. EMERY WHEELS of superior quality, for gumming and sharpening saws. The 
stock size is 12 inches diameter, ^-inch thick, 1-inch hole, with beveled edge. Special sizes 
made to order. 

46 



INSERTED TOOTH CIRCULAR SAWS 

CHISEL POINT CIRCULAR SAWS 




Fig. 41. Chisel tooth saw 

Inserted tooth saws were first introduced with the object 
of preserving the diameter of the saw plate. 

The first patterns were crude affairs, consisting of square 
pieces of steel set in the rim of the blade and secured with a 
rivet. Scores of designs were presented from time to time, 
each possessing some improvement in the shape of the teeth and 
means for securing them. Later inventions sought to facilitate 
the removal of the worn out teeth and the insertion of new ones. 

We manufacture different forms of inserted tooth saws, 
some of which are illustrated and described in this handbook. 
The highest development of the art is the improved chisel-point 

47 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



saw illustrated above, which comprises everything desirable in 
the method of securing the teeth in the blade by means of rotary 
locking holders or shanks, requiring but a few moments to 
replace the teeth. This is done without making the slightest 
alteration in the tension of the blade. 

The No. 33 style provides ample throat room and clearance 
to suit all classes of work to which this pattern of saw is ap- 
plicable. 

These chisel-point saws are constructed on scientific prin- 
ciples, and to secure perfection, special machinery is employed. 

The points and holders in each size are exact duplicates, and 
when ordered in accordance with instructions, are guaranteed to fit. 

USES OF CHISEL-POINT SAWS 

Chisel-point saws are unexcelled for board saws in saw mills, 
from the smallest water power to the largest steam mills em- 
ploying independent steam and shot-gun feeds — for lath bolters, 
gang edgers, single edgers, shingle bolters, saws for heavy bench 
work, short log saws, grooving saws, clap-board saws, boxboard 
saws, ice saws, handle, stave, spoke, knee, and heading bolters, 
twin saw sizers, etc. 

HOW TO ORDER CHISEL-POINT SAWS 

Full directions and a list of particulars necessary to order 
saws of this description will be found on pages 16 and 17. 

These particulars should be carefully given, and in cases 
where the gauge and number of teeth are left to our judgment, 
it is necessary to specify the horse power available to drive 
the saw, the speed both in and out of the cut, the greatest feed 
in inches per revolution, the kind of timber to be sawed, and 
the daily capacity of the mill. 

It is essential to give the exact size of the centre hole. If the 
centre hole is altered after the saw leaves our hands it is liable 
to throw the saw out of round and consequently out of balance. 

STYLES OF TEETH 

These are made in several sizes to suit different classes of 
work and the kind of timber grown in various localities. 

The popular sizes are Nos. 1, 2, 33, 4>^, and 6. No. 1 
being the largest, is designed principally for the heavy timber 
of the Pacific Coast. The No. 4>^ and No. 6 are the smallest 
sizes, permitting the insertion of the maximum number of 

48 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



teeth for board saw mills carrying high feeds and also being 
suitable for edgers, bolters, and lath saws. 

For general sawing, hard and soft-woods, in small and 
medium-sized mills the No. 33 pattern cannot be excelled. 
This size is also used for rift saws, heavy edger saws, and bench 
saws. 

The No. 2 pattern, though used largely in the firs and pines 
of the Pacific Coast, is useful for general sawing of both hard 
and soft woods where a greater amount of throat room is desired 
than the No. 33 provides. This is a good all around tooth and 
has proved its efficiency in the Southern States and in the 
Middle West. 

HOLDERS 

In sawing sandy or gritty logs, the edges of the inner circles 
of the holders are liable to wear and become rounded. This 
permits a portion of the dust to pass down between the side of 
the saw and the log, instead of being properly chambered and 
carried out of the cut. The tendency then is to create friction 
and heat, which is detrimental to good work. To prevent this, 
the edges of the inner circles of the holders should be filed across 
and kept square. Holders which have become thin from long 
usage should be discarded and replaced. 

The swaged pattern of holder, which is one-and-one-half 
gauges heavier in the throat than the sawplate proper, will 
be supplied if specified. 

Holders of the swaged and slotted pattern are made in all 
sizes for those who prefer the slotted pattern of holder. 

SPECIAL HOLDERS 

When the sockets holding the shanks are worn large it is 
advisable to order the special sizes of shanks or holders designed 
to take up this wear. There are two special sizes; one is 1/64'' 
and the other 1/32" larger in the circle than regular sizes. 

Unless the shanks fit snugly, they are liable to break or 
cause the points to break. A shank that has become strained 
or compressed through accident can be expanded by removing 
it from the saw, laying it on an anvil, and striking it sharply on 
both sides, on the inner circle; consequently there is no reason 
for the shanks or bits ever fitting loosely. It must be noted, 
however, in hammering the shank, unless an even number of 
blows are struck on each side, the shankywilljbe bent out of 
shape. 

49 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



GUIDES 

Millmen often make the mistake of setting the guides too 
close to the rim when operating inserted tooth saws. This is 
an important item, and the operator should see that the guides 
CLEAR THE HOLDERS by at least one-quarter of an inch. 
Otherwise the saw will run unsteadily and the holders and points 
will be turned out of place. 

INSERTING NEW POINTS 

Oil the grooves carefully. Place the new point or bit squarely 
on the head of the shank. If the point should not turn into 
position readily, lift the wrench enough to permit the ball or 
head of the holder to assume its proper place in the point; then 
start again and the point will be found to move steadily into 
position. Do not use undue force, the stops should meet lightly, 
and no additional pressure should be applied to the wrench when 
the heel of the bit has reached the shoulder. 



SHARPENING CHISEL-POINTS 

The points or bits should be sharpened or filed without taking 
them out of the saw, thereby preventing unnecessary wear. 
The temper of these points is such that they may be sharpened 
by the use of a good file. The following illustration shows the 
file specially designed for this purpose. 

CHISEL-POINT FILE 

Made 8, 9, and 10 inches in length 




Fig. 42 



Most of the filing should be done on the front or the throat 
of the tooth. It is only necessary to file enough on the back 
to remove the burr. Very little work is required to sharpen 
points. Care should be exercised to keep the cutting edge at 
right angles to the side of the saw. Do not use a square-cornered 
file, as this will leave a sharp nick under the point. A bit left 
in this condition is liable to break and injure the blade. 

50 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 




Fig. 43-B 



Fig, 43-C 



Fig. 43-A shows the point when new. Fig. 43-B shows 
the point when it has been properly filed until worn out. Fig. 
43-C shows the point improperly filed, which method weakens it. 

Should a bit be broken by accident, the new one must be 
dressed to the length and width of those in the saw. 

SWAGING POINTS 

If the bits are to be swaged, the work should be done with 
the Conqueror Swage and a light hammer, drawing out the 
corners just enough to square the points; then the set should 
be dressed with a side file. Relieve the corners so as to give 
proper clearance. In swaging, be careful not to strike hard 
enough to upset the shoulder or strain the shank, for the saw 
is liable to be ruined in this manner. 

To save the saw, when swaging ' 'Points" it is best to use a 
swaging plate which may be held in a vise. This, which is prac- 
ticall}^ a small section of a saw, holds one tooth. It can be sup- 
plied at small cost. 

DRESSING POINTS 

Particular attention is called to the necessity for keeping 
the cutting edges of the points at the proper width. It is de- 
sired that this important item may not be lost sight of, since 
most complaints may be traced to a disregard of this require- 
ment. If the points are filed so that they are wider behind 
the cutting edges than on the extreme corners, good work 
cannot be accomplished. The following diagrams, (Fig. 44) C, 
D and E, were taken from bits removed from saws, concerning 
which complaint was made. The reason is at once apparent. 
Diagrams A and B show two styles of side dressing, either 
of which is good, depending on the class of work in hand. The 
spread should be distributed evenly on both sides of the saw. 

51 



DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 



Tf IIT 

A B C D E I 

Fig. 44 

WIDTH OF CUTTING-EDGE 

Chisel-points are made in various widths of cutting-edge. 
A small booklet, containing a list of these sizes, will be supplied 
on application. The regular width is furnished, unless direc- 
tions are given to the contrary. The booklet mentioned gives 
full instructions on this particular. 

"FITTING'' SAWS TO CUT FROZEN TIMBER 

Before starting to cut frozen timber, equip the saw with 
a new set of swaged holders, laying aside the old ones for summer 
sawing. This expenditure will be found a paying investment. 
The swaged holder is a gauge and a half heavier in the throat 
than the sawplate proper, and is designed to hold and carry 
out of the cut the finest dust, which would, otherwise, pass 
down the side of the saw, freeze to the log, and force the saw 
out of line. 

For winter work it is not desirable to use a side file, which 
will leave flat places on the sides of the points parallel to the 
sides of the saw. Should a side file be used, be careful to see 
that the bits are ''relieved" behind the points to the extreme 
edge by giving them clearance through a slight under-cut and 
back-cut with a hand file. To do successful work in this class 
of sawing the corners must be sharp. 

It is possible to use narrower bits than in summer sawing. 
In some sizes a special short bit, particularly designed for winter 
work, is made. This short bit is illustrated and described in 
the pamphlet ''Chisel-Points and Holders." J 

A number of our customers operate chisel-point saws very " 
successfully in winter by using worn points, discarded during 
the summer months; they should be selected in sets of even 
length so that the saw will be round. 

The old points may be swaged a trifle. Use no more set 
than is absolutely necessary. Taper back nicely from the 

52 



DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 



points by careful side dressing, with the teeth widest at the 
extreme points, and do not allow the corners to become round, 
or the saw will dodge out of the cut, particularly in slabbing. 
The corners next to the log do most of the cutting, and soon 
become dull in frozen timber. Consequently it is necessary 
to watch for this so that the saw will not be allowed to run 
out of the cut and become strained or buckled. 

DIRECTIONS FOR ORDERING CHISEL-POINTS 
AND HOLDERS 

Every chisel-tooth saw of our manufacture has a shop number, 
which will be found directly under our brand, midway between 
the eye and the rim. Invariably give this number when order- 
ing points and holders. 

When there is the slightest doubt about sizes, or gauges, 
or where the shop number cannot be obtained, send a sample 
tooth or holder (an old one will answer) with the order. 

The gauge of both teeth and holders should be the same 
as the saw plate (except in special cases), and this may be 




Fig. 45. No. 33 chisel tooth, full size 

I determined by applying a Disston Standard Wire Gauge, which 
I corresponds exactly to the Stubbs or English Wire Gauge. 
i To fill an order properly, we must know the size of the 
I tooth, the gauge, and the width at the cutting edge. Teeth 
of standard width of cutting-edge are always sent unless other- 
wise specified. 

63 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



The size of the holders or shanks always corresponds with 
the size of the teeth used. If No. 33-8 gauge teeth are used, 
the proper size of holder to order is No. 33-8 gauge. In instances 
of special styles, specify the pattern stamped on the holder in 
addition to the number and gauge of the tooth, also whether 
solid, swaged, or swaged and slotted. 

IMPORTANT NOTICE 

When returning chisel-tooth saws for repairs please leave 
all the teeth and holders in place, for they are needed in adjust- 
ing the tension. Unless teeth and holders are returned we shall 
supply a new set at regular prices. Be sure to mark the name 
of the shipper on the case, for purposes of identification. 



INSERTED TOOTH SAWS 
NO. 10 PATTERN 





Fig. 46. No, 10 pattern tooth 

This style of tooth is sometimes termed the Spaulding 
Tooth, and is used principally in heavy mills on the Pacific 
Coast. The No. 10 tooth is made in three sizes suitable for 
small, medium, and large timber. 

INSERTED TOOTH RE-SAWS, NO. 16 PATTERN 

The difficulty occasioned by wearing down or reduction in 
diameter of re-saws, has created a demand for an inserted tooth 

54 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



saw of this class. To supply this want, we are now making 
re-saws with the improved re-saw inserted tooth, of which the 
above is a representation. The advantages claimed for this 
style of saw are numerous, the most important of which is that 
the original diameter of the saw is retained. This point will 
readily be seen by all practical operators and sawyers; for the 
saw must be the proper diameter and thickness at rim and 
centre to give the best results. If the diameter is decreased, 
the periphery or cutting edge is brought closer to the heavy 
centre or flange of the saw, not only cutting out a heavier kerf, 
but bringing an undue strain upon both saw and machine and 
causing the pieces being sawed to take a short, sharp spring-off. 
In sawing short stuff where flanged saws are used, the flange 
or collar, by its close proximity to the cutting edge of the saw, 
splits a portion of piece from the bolt instead of sawing it. 
This gives very unsatisfactory results both as to quality and 
quantity of work done. Therefore, if the saw is right at the 
start, by retaining original thickness and size, these difficulties 
are entirely obviated. To do this, inserted tooth saws must be 
used, or the solid tooth saw must frequently be replaced. 




Fig. 47. Inserted tooth saw, No. 16 

This saw can be made in gauges from 12 to 17 at the rim. 
By replacing the teeth when they are worn out the saw is prac- 
tically renewed at a yery small expense. 

These saws are no experiment. They have been used for years 
with satisfactory and economical results, and we give the same 
warranty with them that we give on all goods bearing our 
brand. 

55 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



INSERTED TOOTH CIRCULAR CROSS-CUT SAWS 

This style of saw 
is particularly ad- 
apted for use in 
pulp, paper^ shingle, 
and stave mills, also 
for slab and slasher 
saws, and where 
logs or cants are cut 
into short lengths 
or bolts. Thorough 
tests covering a 
trial for some years, 

Fig. 48. Two-prong ^^ ^^^j^ ^^^ ^^^ F.g. 49. Four-prong 

four-prong patterns, have demonstrated them to be a decided 
success. The teeth are high in temper, thus giving superior 
edge-holding quality. 

They are designed for use only in saws 36 inches in diameter 
and larger. They are made in 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, and 9 gauge only, 
and can be sharpened readily on an automatic saw sharpener. 





SPIRAL TOOTH CIRCULAR CUT-OFF SAW 

Patented May 5, 1914 




Fig. 50. Spiral tooth cut-off saws 

66 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



A rapid, smooth cutting, easy running saw. Superior to any 
other form of cut-off saw of inserted tooth type. 

The teeth are inserted in the blade on spiral lines, which give 
full clearance to each individual tooth and also perfect clear- 
ance to the blade in the largest cuts. 

The manner in which the teeth are inserted in the blade does 
away with the necessity of setting or springing the teeth for 
clearance. 

The only operation for keeping the saw in running order is 
to sharpen the teeth, which is readily accomplished through 
the use of any of the standard automatic cut-off saw sharpeners 
of the proper size. 

We recommend and guarantee the spiral tooth to give 
economical and satisfactory service in all kinds of cut-off work 
on large timber and logs, and particularly where the greatest 
capacity is required, such as cutting logs into pulp-wood length, 
stave bolts, and shingle blocks. 

DIAMOND-POINT INSERTED TOOTH 
CIRCULAR ICE SAW 



Patented Nov. 16, 1915 




Fig. 51. Diamond-point ice saw 

This is an improvement on the regular square-bit chisel 
tooth which has stood the test of time in so many plate and 
natural ice harvesting plants. 

57 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



The diamond-shaped point, through making a pronounced V 
in the bottom of the groove, centers the cleavage point, and 
therefore allows the floats and cakes to be barred-off with 
materially less flanging than is possible when the bottom of 
the groove is flat or square. 

INSERTED TOOTH SAWS 

American Saw Co.*s Designs 

We continue to manufacture and supply all of the styles 
of inserted tooth saws and the teeth, bits, springs, or holders, 
formerly made by the American Saw Company, of Trenton. 

TRENTON TOOTH, 1894 Style 




y^. 



Fig. 52 4 

We are prepared to supply the American Tooth, the Trenton 
Tooth regular, the Trenton Tooth 1894 style, the Brooke Bit 
and Spring, the Dunbar Tooth, the Risdon Tooth, the High 
Speed Tooth, the Prosser Tooth, and the Goulding Bit. These 
teeth are sharpened and dressed the same as a solid tooth saw, 
and the directions in this handbook for the dressing of sohd 
tooth saws will apply. The teeth are all ribbed on the back to 
lessen the amount of swaging necessary. 

When sharpening, the same cutting angles should be pre- 
served, and the gullets kept round, either with a round file or 
by the use of a proper gummer. 

When changing teeth, first drive them into position by plac- 
ing a swage on the cutting edge and striking a blow with a 
light hammer. Care should be exercised not to expand the 

58 



DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 



rim of the saw by riveting too tightly, for if this operation is 
not done properly the tension of he saw will be destroyed. It 
is only necessary to rivet enough to secure the tooth firmly. 
The surplus metal must then be chipped off with a cold chisel 
in order that it may not interfere with the running of the saw. 
For those who prefer this form of inserted tooth saw to 
the chisel point, the Trenton Tooth 1894 style is recommended. 
The Trenton Tooth is made in two sizes. No. 1 (large) and 
No. 2 (small). 



59 



SAWS FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES 

SHINGLE AND HEADING SAWS 







iifUkT OR COUNTtRSUnW. S\DE ,/ 

Fig. 53-A. Left-hand 




Fig. 53-B. Right-hand 



When ordering shingle saws give full specifications, as follows : 
diameter of saw, in inches, thickness or gauge at centre, thick- 
ness or gauge at rim, number of teeth, right or left-hand, and 
speed of saw. 

If we are to furnish the flange, state size, and maker's name 
of machine, or send correct and full templet of old flange, giving 
size and location of holes. 

If we are to furnish the saw only, send the flange to us that 
we may fit it to the saw. If you cannot forward the flange, 
send templet of holes and sample of screw by which to drill 

and countersink saw. 



Fig. 54 -A 



Fig. 54 




SCREWS FOR SHINGLE SAWS 

Particular attention is called to the import- 
ance of using screws that are suitable to the 
thickness of the saw. We frequently receive 
screws as samples by which to drill and counter- 
sink, that have heads entirely too large for the 
thickness of the saw, — which require the flange 
to be countersunk (as shown in Fig. 54-A). This 
reduces the length of thread in the flange making 
it impossible to bind the saw firmly to the flange. 

60 



DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 



Fig. 54-B shows the correct size the screw-heads should be 
to obtain a good bearing for the screw-heads on the countersink 
in the saw. The full thickness of the flange is retained for the thread. 

In no case should screw-heads be deeper than the thickness 
of the saw. Thin saws require smaller screw-heads than thick 
saws. 



FLANGES OR COLLARS 

for 

SHINGLE AND HEADING SAWS 



The flanges to which shingle saws are attached are usually 
made of cast-iron and are necessarily much heavier and stiffer 
than the saws. This being the case it is perfectly manifest that, 
if the faces of the flanges are not true, no saw, no matter how 
accurately ground or hammered, will be fiat or true when screwed 
fast to a stiff, untrue flange. Nor can any saw reasonably be 
expected to do good work under such circumstances. 

Cast-iron flanges are easily and frequently sprung out-of- 
true when ''shingle bolts" break loose from the dogs and are 
jammed between the saw and the frame of the machine. 

All flanges should be carefully examined before new saws 
are put on them and if a 
flange shows out-of-true, it 
should be sent to the factory 
for correction. It is always a 
good plan to send the old 
flanges when ordering new 
saws. Then, if the flanges 
are sprung, the manufacturer 
will correct the trouble. The 
charge for this will be merely 
nominal and nothing in com- 
parison with the amount that 
might be wasted, in time and 
material, trying to run perfect 
saws on imperfect flanges, be- 
sides running the risk of ruin- 
ing the saws. 




'^v 



^■M--fs^-s>s-x-^~^ 



Fig. 55. Shingle or heading saw showing 
collar and flange 



61 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



SET GAUGE FOR SHINGLE, HEADING, AND VENEER 

SAWS 

The illustration represents a gauge for 
regulating the amount of set for shingle, 
heading, and jointer saws. 

As shown, the gauge is a simple con- 
trivance, having three set screws and 
two projecting arms, and is operated 
from the flat side of the saw. 

The amount of set required being 
known, first adjust the gauge to the flat 
side of the saw by use of the bottom screw 
and side arms. Then turn the upper or 
gauge screw on the left hand side until 
it rests lightly on the side of the plate 
or tooth, — before it has been set. Reverse the gauge screw until 
the amount of set wanted is shown between the end of the screw 
and the tooth. Fasten in this position by the jam on the screw, 
then adjust the right side of the gauge in same manner, and 
the tool is ready for use. 

VENEERING SAWS IN SEGMENTS 




Illustration 
one-half size 



Fig. 56 



LEFT-HAND 




RIGHT-HAhfD 

'"".■q^^s"" 




Flat or countersunk side 



Fig. 57 



wmM «IK 

Flat or countersunk side 



Segment saws are used both for re-sawing boards and planks 
into thinner stock, and for cutting veneers. But since the 
advent of the band re-saw, the segment saw is used principally 
for sawing veneers. Usually the stock from which the veneers 
are cut is very valuable wood. Therefore manufacturers save 
as much of the stock as possible by reducing the saw kerf to 
the finest practicable width. To do this, a large cast iron plate 
or flange is used to make up the centre of the saw, — the seg- 
ments being attached to the flange by countersunk screws. 

The segments, when new, are from 12 to 15 inches deep, 
usually 7 or 8 gauge at the heel and taper to 19 gauge or thinner 

62 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



on the toothed edge. The countersunk side of the whole saw 
is flat; all the taper of flange and segments being on the other 
side of the saw. The veneer, only one-eighth inch or less in 
thickness, readily springs away from the thick part of the 
flange, leaving it practically free from friction and heat which, 
while less detrimental to the operating of segments saws, is always 
objectionable. 

CONCAVE SAWS 




Left-hand 



Fig. 58 



Right-hand 



Concave saws are used in the manufacture of barrel 
heads, keg heads, etc. They are dished and tempered by an 
entirely new and patented process, and are of good quality 
in every respect. To keep concave saws in order, set both 
sides of the teeth alike. File the front of the teeth square and 
bevel the backs a trifle. Have the same amount of rake on 
the fronts of all the teeth. Keep the gullets round. Do not run a 
dull saw. 

BILGE AND CYLINDER SAWS 




Fig. 59. Bilge saws 

63 



DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 




Fig. 60. Cylinder saw 



We are prepared to furnish these saws of a superior quality, 
ground and tempered by our special process. They are made 
of the best Disston-made steel and will give satisfaction. We 
repair and re-steel old cylinder or barrel saws. 



This is a second 
type of cylinder saw. 
We make all patterns 
of cylinder saws, both 
brazed and open joint, 
and bottom saws with 
or without heads. 




Used for cutting 
out round holes, also 
round sections such as 
tops for shoe brushes, 
basket bottoms, etc. 



Fig. 61. Cylinder saw 



RE-FILING CYLINDER AND BILGE SAWS 

The instructions and sketch below give a correct rule for 

filing and keep- 
ing this class of 
saws in proper 
order. While 
9/16 of an inch 
is given as a 
base for the 
depth of the 
teeth, this is 
subject to vari- 
ation to suit 
the different 
conditions. 




DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 



To Obtain the Correct Depth of Teeth. — See that all 
the points of the old teeth are even. If not, raze off until they 
form an even edge. Chalk the surface of the saw to retain a 
pencil mark, on which scribe a line 9/16 of an inch from the 
end of the razed points, like the dotted line on the sketch. 

Proper Pitch for Front of Teeth. — Draw a line 6 inches 
lengthwise with the axis of the saw. From the end of this 
step off 4 inches parallel with the edge of the saw. Then draw 
a line from this point to the point of the tooth which will give the 
angle or pitch. 

It is only necessary to lay out two teeth in the manner 
suggested, after which a tin templet can be cut to correspond 
with them and the balance of the teeth marked out accordingly. 

To Shape the Teeth and Gullets a ^ inch round file 
is generally used, the balance of the tooth being finished with 
an ordinary mill file, shaping the front and back of the tooth 
as shown on the sketch. Particular attention should be given 
to file the gullets round at the bottom, for sharp, square corners 
will cause breakage. 

When dressing the teeth, file the cutting edges square with 
the face or front of the teeth. The set should be merely sufficient 
to clear the saw, and should extend no more than one-third the 
depth of the tooth. A uniform set can be obtained by using 
a metal templet and springing each tooth to this. 

If a swage set is used on cylinder saw, the work can be done 
either with an ordinary up-set swage or with an eccentric swage. 

CHAMFERING SAW 



These saws are used 
in conjunction with 
concave saws for cut- 
ting a chamfer on the 
heads of barrels and 
kegs. The teeth are 
milled to make a shear 




cut. The front of the 
tooth beveled to 60°. 
These are usually 
made 6 and 6)4 inches 
in diameter. Special 
sizes and patterns will 
be made on order. 



Fig. 63 



GROOVING SAWS 

Solid Tooth 

These useful tools are too well known to require special men- 
tion. They are ground thinner at the centre than at the rim, so that 

65 



DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 



little or no set is required to keep the extreme points of the teeth 
perceptibly wider than body of the teeth. We make these saws with 
any thickness at edge or centre 
that may be wanted. In order- 
ing grooving saws, state whether 
they should be straight or hollow 
ground . If a hollow ground saw is 
desired give the size of the collar. 
We manufacture grooving 
saws with various patterns or 
shapes of teeth (solid and insert- ^^^- ^^- ^p^"^^ 
ed) to cut grooves of any width, depth, or special shape on bot- 
tom or side. 




Fig. 64. Regular 




KEYSTONE GROOVER OR DADO HEAD 




Fig. 66 



Inside cutter 



This head consists of two outside saws, each }/^ inch thick. 
These operated singly will cut a groove Y^ inch wide. The 
two saws placed together will cut a groove j4 inch wide. With 
the addition of inside pieces placed between the saws, grooves 
of any width may be cut from 5/16 inch up by sixteenths. 

The construction of this head and its adjustment for various 
widths of grooves is simple, and it is easily kept in order. 



66 



DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 



LOCK-CORNER CUTTERS 




Fig. 67 



These are used for dovetailing and are made in any diameter, 
thickness, and with any number of teeth, suitable for the vari- 
ous widths of grooves desired. 



THIN RIM CIRCULAR 
SAWS 

These are used for cutting win- 
dow frame pockets and on other 
work where a thin saw is desirable 
and where it is not practicable to 
use a saw ground thin all the way 
to centre. It will be noted that the 
centre of this saw is left heavier 
than the rim, to give strength and 
stiffness. 



^^^*AM^4, 




Fig. 68 



67 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



HMMl/i^/i^ 




%. 



''^ 

^ 




Fig. 69 

CIRCULAR MITRE 
SAW 

With Cleaner Tooth 

This style of saw can be 
made either for ripping or 
cross-cutting. When made for 
ripping a greater number of 
cleaner teeth are put in than 
when made for cross-cutting. 
This style of saw cuts equally 
smooth in either ripping or 
cross-cutting. 



CIRCULAR MITRE 
SAWS 

These saws are ground to 
run without set. They are 
especially adapted for smooth 
cutting, such as cabinet and 
cigar box work. 

When ordering, give the 
size of the centre hole, also 
the diameter of the collars on 
the mandrel. 



m^^^,^^^ 




68 



HAMMERING AND ADJUSTING 
CIRCULAR SAWS 

Tensioning 

The many inquiries we have in regard to the method of 
hammering and adjusting the tension in saws has induced 
us to print a few simple instructions on the subject. If carefully 
followed these can not be other than a benefit to beginners 
and others seeking information in this line. All saws of what- 
ever kind, if properly made, are what we will call ''loose," 
through or toward the center to suit the speeds and different 
kinds of work for which they are intended. The object is to 
keep the edge strained on a straight line, to prevent it from 
chattering or cutting a zig-zag kerf through the timber. What 
applies to any one kind of saw in the method of hammering, 
applies to all. The circular saw, however, is the most difficult 
to treat. Even after the most careful instructions, practical 
experience and close observation on the part of those having 
these saws in charge, is necessary before they can be success- 
fully hammered. 

The strain in running and the process of gumming will 
stretch the edge of the saw and it will begin to run snakey, 
rattle in the guides, and make bad lumber. However, before 
concluding that the saw must be hammered to adjust the ten- 
sion, see if there is not some other cause for the trouble, such 
as improper lining, the adjustment of the guides, the collars, 
the saw out of balance, and the dressing of the teeth. These 
matters, however, are all referred to in this hand-book, and 
are only mentioned here for those who have not had experience. 
Our object here is to treat on the hammering necessary to 
keep the saw true and in proper tension. This means that it 
must be open sufficiently and properly from the edge toward 
the centre to suit the motion of the saw and the feed of the mill. 

The tools required are — anvil, one round-face and one cross- 
face hammer, two straight-edges — one from 14 to 18 inches long, 

69 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



one about 48 inches long — and one try-mandrel. We find that 
these tools for fitting up saws are being put in many of the 
large mills. The men who handle the saws are making them- 
selves proficient in the hammering of the saws to suit their 
wants. This knowledge they have acquired by perseverance and 
practical experience, the only way in which it can be obtained. 




Fig. 71. Appearance of a saw having correct tension 

In studying the subject of how to hammer circular saws, 
it would be well for those who have charge of the saws, to 
examine them when first received for the tension, assuming 
that they are correctly tensioned for the speed and conditions 
given when they leave the maker. All the saws made by us 
are as true as it is possible to make them. Figure 71 shows a 
saw properly tensioned. It must be remembered, however, 
that different speeds and feeds call for different adjustment 
of tension. A saw that has lost its tension appears as that 
shown in figure 72 and needs hammering with a round-face 
hammer, along the lines shown in figure 73-A. Before commencing 

70 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



to hammer to restore the tension, examine or test the saw all 
around with a straight edge, as shown by figure 74. If any part 
of the saw between the rim and the centre falls away from 
the straight-edge, mark around this spot as shown by figure 73-B, 
and do not hammer as much, if any, at that place. In testing 




Fig. 72. Appearance of a saw that has lost its tension 

for the tension (see Fig. 74), be sure to have the straight-edge 
at right angles with that part of the saw which rests on the 
board that extends back from the anvil, and with the opposite 
edge which is being raised with the left hand. The straight- 
edge is held and gently pressed down with the right hand. Do 
not lean the straight-edge to one side but hold it straight up, 
or it will fall to the form of the saw and not show what is desired. 
A straight-edge reaching from the centre hole well out to the 
edge of the saw is the best to use to judge the tension in ham- 
mering, and when this straight-edge is applied as above, the 
saw should fall away from a straight line as shown by figure 
74. This will show that the centre of the saw is stiff, as it must 

71 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



always be to run properly and do good work. If a short straight- 
edge about 6 inches long were pressed directly over the centre, 
it would show the saw to be nearly flat or of equal tension at 




Fig. 74. Testing for tension with a short straight-edge 

72 



DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 



that part. It is very seldom necessary to hammer a saw at 
the part covered by the collars. 

When ready to hammer, as at figure 73-A, see that the face of 
hammer is ground so that the blow will be round. Do not strike 
too heavily. It is better to go over the saw a number of times 




Fig. 75. Testing with a long straight-edge to see if the saw is true 

than to hammer too much at one operation. Blows which are 
too heavy may put the saw in worse shape than it was before 
it was hammered. 

73 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



After hammering one side, mark off the other side and 
repeat the operation with as near as possible the same number 
and weight of blows as struck on the first side, and, if possible, 
directly over them. Now, stand the saw on the floor. Hold 
it up straight and test it with the long straight-edge as shown 




Fig. 76. Testing with the saw on a mandrel and marking for further tensioning 

by figure 75. If the hammering has been done alike on both 
sides, the saw will be very nearly true. If, however, it shows 
full on one side and dishing on the other, mark these places 
that are full. 

74 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



Place the saw on the anvil with the round side up. Hammer 
lightly on the full places. Test again with the long straight- 
edge, and if it appears true, put it on the anvil and test it as 
explained, to see if it has the proper tension. If not, repeat 
the operation with the round-faced hammer until desired ten- 
sion is obtained. After again testing with a long straight-edge, 
put the saw on the try-mandrel to test it with the short straight- 
edge for running true. This mandrel must also be true, which 
can be determined by changing the position of the saw on the 









Fig. 77. 

mandrel to see if the same parts of the saw run off and on at 
the pointer. Mark the places as they run off or on as shown 
by figure 76, while turning the saw around slowly. Where the 
saw runs off, lumps will probably be found as at 1, 1, 1, or what 
is termed twist lumps as at 2, 2, 2 of figure 77, or both may 
occur. These lumps must be taken out with a cross-face ham- 
mer and struck as shown in the direction that the straight-edge 
shows the lumps to run. The saw also may be thrown out of 
true by lumps running toward the center as No. 3, figure 77; 
in this case the saw will be on or off at points about opposite 
each other. This part of the hammering must be done carefully, 
and if the hammer is of the proper weight and the face properly 
ground, the saw can be made to run true without altering the ten- 
sion to any great extent. The testing on the mandrel by an inex- 
perienced hand should be done with the full side of the saw 
towards the pointer. Knocking down the lumps from that 

75 



DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 



side will make the plate flat. When the saw is fairly flat, test 
from both sides and operate in Hke manner and get the same 
results. Now put the saw on the arbor and if for a high motion, it 
will sway gently from side to side in getting up to full speed and 
then run steady. However, if it acts as heretofore stated (runs 




Fig. 78. Testing to see if the saw "falls away" from the straight-edge 

snakey and rattles in the guides), it needs to be made more 
open toward the centre. An experienced man will stand the 
saw on the floor. Taking hold at the top edge he will give it a 
sudden shake. If the centre vibrates and the edge stands 

76 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



stiff, he knows it to be open towards the centre. He will also 
test by leaning the saw over, to see if it falls away from the 
straight-edge sufficiently as shown by figure 78. Consequently 
he knows it to be right before putting it on the arbor. If the 
saw is too open at the centre it will run from side to side, mostly 
out of the log, and needs to be hammered as shown by figure 
79-A. The distance in from the edge of the saw, to begin ham- 
mering depends upon how near to the rim the tension has been 
carried. If the tension (or drop) extends from the centre to 




Fig. 79-A 



Fig. 79-B 



the first circular line in the illustration, hammer in to that 
line; if to line 2 or 3, hammer to those lines, or the looseness 
may be irregular, as shown by figure 79-B, and will need to be 
hammered as shown to regulate the tension. After this is 
done proceed, as explained, with cross-face hammer to free 
saw from twists and lumps to make it run true. If the saw 
should be buckled by an accident, true it with the cross-face 
hammer as explained by figures 75, 76, and 77 before regulating 
tension and final truing. Do the same in case of buckling by 
burned spots or sharp lumps over the collar line. To remove 
or level these lumps, lay two thicknesses of strong, heavy paper 
on the anvil, place the saw on the anvil with the spot or lump 
resting on the paper and by giving a few well directed blows 
the lumps can be hammered down without expanding the 
metal as it would if straightened on the bare face of the anvil. 

77 



1 



niSSrON lil'MnKKMAN S HAND BOOK 



W'luMi lininnuMing with the roiiiui-faco haiumor, work on lines 
drawn from the edge towards the centre. This will prevent 
putting twist lumps in the saw and obviate nuieh of the trouble 
in truing with a cross-face hannner. It is very important to 
have the blows distributed properly, llanunering too much 
at one place would cause a loose spot or lump that would be 
diiftcult to take out. Also it might burn a blue spot on the 
saw in the cut. 

If it is necessary to go over the hammering more than once 
for tension, make additional lines between those lines that 
have already been hanunered on. The dressing of the faces of 
the hanuners is important; the round face should be nicely 
roimded so that when a light blow' is struck on the oiled surface 
of the saw, it shows about a half inch in diameter. A cross face 
hannner should show a blow three-quarter by three-eighth inch. 
A sharp cutting blow is not effective either in knocking down 
a lump or stretching the metal. 

In conclusion, we make the following suggestions to beginners: 

Do not be discouraged by the failure of first attempts. 
^Take yourself perfectly familiar with the instructions given 
and persevere in properly applying them. 

Carefully study the amount of opening towards the centre 
that the saw requires for tension to suit the motion and feed 
used. For regulating this, always use the round-face hammer. 

The stem of the try-mandrel need be only one inch or less 
in diameter with bushings used for larger arbor holes. 

Beginners in the art of hannuering should take a small cir- 
cular cross-cut saw (one that can be handled easily), for this 
class of saws, as a rule, is given very little attention in the 
mills. Go through the operation as instructed and, if successful 
it will show advancement in the art and the ability to operate 
on larger saws without the same risk of failure. 

In regard to large circular saws cracking and breaking over 
the collar line, — the saws when first put in use have been ham- 
mered or left open enough for a certain speed. If the speed is 
reduced while in the cut, the saw will run either in or out of 
the log (n\ost generally out), forming as it were, a wedge between 
the saw and headblocks. This eventually will crack or break 
the saw at or near the collar line by forcing it over this rigid 
point, hence the importance of maintaining a uniform speed and 
liaving the tension adapted to it. In mills where steam feed is 
used great care should be taken not to crowd the feed on the 

7S 



DISSTON LUMlii:JtMAN S HAND JiOOK 



saw whon it loses its speed from any cause, such as insufficient 
boiler, en^^ine, or belt power. For if the feed is not decreased 
in proportion to the speed, the saw will be ''crowded out" and 
forced over the collar just as though the tension were not prop- 
erly adjusted. 

ANVIL, HAMMERS, AND STRAIGHT EDGES FOR 
REPAIRING SAWS 




80 



The above are illustrations of the tools necessary for altering 
or adjusting the tension of circular saws. (See page 69. j 



SWAGE BAR HAMMER 




Fig. 81 



SWAGE BAR 




Fig. 82 

These illustrations represent our swage bar and hammer 
for use in swaging the teeth of circular and gang saws. We 
make the hammers in two sizes; the bars of any shape, size, or 
weight desired. 

79 



CIRCULAR SAW MANDRELS 




Fig. 83. No. 000, Pulley on end, self-oiling boxes 

Our stock mandrels with a pulley on the end or in the centre 
range in sizes suitable for saws 10 to 38 inches in diameter. 
Special sizes will be made to order. 

In order to obtain the best results and the maximum output 
from circular saws a good mandrel is an absolute necessity. 

The Disston Mandrels are superior in quality and workmanship. 

The shafts of steel, accurately turned, possess in the various 
sizes a safe margin of strength to prevent springing or undue 
vibration under the heaviest feed or pressure that may be put 
on the saw they are designed to carry. All collars or flanges 
are of sufficient diameter to give proper support to the saw, 
accurately machined and recessed, giving a perfect bearing on 
the blade. The pulleys are turned up after being placed on 
the shaft. The boxes, extra long and heavy, are of grey iron, 
well fitted and babbitted, insuring true balance and smooth 
running. 

A mandrel should not be too light for the work to be done 
or it will spring, causing it to heat. See that the bearings are 
well proportioned and fitted. All bearings should be at least 
three times as long as the diameter of the mandrel. The boxes 
should fit neatly enough to prevent lost motion, but not so tightly 
on the quarters as to cut off the supply of oil. One of the main 
causes of mandrels heating is want of the proper lubrication. 
The cutting of channels from the front side of the bottom hah 
of the boxes running down and under the shaft to the point of 

80 



DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 



hardest bearing will be a great benefit in all cases where self- 
oiling boxes are not used. Where there are no self-oiling boxes 
use a good heavy body oil or lubricant. In some mills where 
there are three bearings on the mandrel, heating is caused by 
getting bearings out of line when shifting for lead or adjustment. 
Again, some arbors have the collars for preventing end motion 
against the box nearest the saw. They should be on the other 
end, as the bearing nearest the saw has the most strain on it 
at all times. Heating is often caused by a short and tight belt. 
Where there is trouble with a heating journal and slipping belt, 
it would be advisable, as well as economical, to increase the 
diameter of the receiving pulley on the mandrel, even at the sacrifice 
of some of the speed. Belts should be of good length, and in 
all cases should have the strain on the lower side and the slack 
at the top. When practicable, put a balanced tightener or 
stress pulley on the top, placing it so that it will give as much 
lap of belt on the pulley as possible. This will take much strain 
off the mandrel, rendering it less liable to heat. A saw running 
badly from other causes, by undue crowding and straining, will 
frequently cause a mandrel to heat that would otherwise run 
cool. See suggestions on keeping saw and mill in order. 

DISSTON CIRCULAR SAW MANDRELS 




Fig. 84. No. 60, Pulley in center with self-oiling boxes 




Fig. 85. No. 201, Yoke, with self -oiling boxes 

81 



DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 




Fig. 86. No. 301, Connected box 

» 

The boxes of Nos. 201 and 301 mandrels being yoked or 
connected makes it impossible for the journals to get out of 
Ime with each other. 

The above mandrels are made with a pulley on the right- 
hand side, and with left-hand thread, unless otherwise ordered. 

CORDWOOD MANDRELS 




Fig. 87. No. 400 



The No. 400 Cordwood Mandrel is made with a pulley on the 
left-hand side, and with right-hand thread, unless otherwise 
ordered. 

All these mandrels have self-oiling boxes and require no 
additional attention in this respect for a long time after the 
oil reservoir has been filled, the oil being carried to the bearings 
by a ring revolving on the shaft. 

We also make a mandrel of the same style, but larger in size, 
called the No. 401. 



82 



BAND SAWS 

LEFT-HAND AND RIGHT-HAND SAW MILLS 





Fig. 88-A 



Fig. 88-B 



When ordering band saws, be particular to state whether 
right or left-hand saws are desired; also give full particulars 
as to gauge, style of tooth, back edge, etc. If the saws are to 
be crowning on the back we finish them with 1/64'^ crowning to 
each 5 feet in length, unless otherwise instructed. 

Vie will supply, on application, an order blank giving details 
to be specified. If this is properly filled out it will enable us 
to make up the saws exactly as required. 

The above illustration gives a view of two mills, in which 
the ''hand" of the saw can readily be determined. Fig. 88-A 
shows the design of a left-hand mill, the log being on the left 
side of the saw when standing facing the mill. Fig. 88-B shows 
a right-hand mill, the log being on the right-hand side of saw. 

HINTS FOR THE OPERATION OF BAND SAWS 

The life of a band saw depends very largely on the way it 
is handled, particularly when it is new and before it has been 
perfectly adapted to the wheels on which it is run. Many men 

83 



DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 



expect a new saw to do more work than one that has been 
perfectly adapted and adjusted to the wheels and the alignment 
of the mill. This is a mistake, for there are peculiarities about 
every mill, and until a new saw is adjusted to the face of the 
wheels, their aligning or tilt, the speed and feed, they cannot 
be expected to give as good results as the saw which has been 
adjusted to the mill. 

There is a certain quality about a new band saw which we 
can best describe by calling ''surplus" elasticity, and until this 
quality is brought down to its proper bearing by the judicious 
use of the hammer and saw stretcher in connection with the 
first ''runs" of the saw, it will not be at its best. The manu- 
facturer is not in a position to subject the saws he sends out 
to the same strains they receive in the mills. Hence a saw will 
change more on the first run than on any succeeding one. It 
should be gone over with extra care the first time it comes off 
the wheels. In fact, if the system were more generally followed 
of running a saw only half an hour on its first run, then taking 
it off and touching it up wherever necessary, there would be 
fewer cracked blades, and the life of all saws would be materially 
increased. 

All experienced filers and mill men know that excessive 
speed, too much tension, uneven tension, case-hardening, or 
glazing from the emery wheel, gum adhering to face of wheels, 
crystallization from too heavy hammering, cuts on the surface 
of the saw from sharp-faced hammers, vibration of either ma- 
chine or saw, sharp angles in the gullets, imperfectly adjusted 
guides, backs of saws too long or too short and excessively cross 
aligned to make them "track," insufficient throat room and hook, 
and crowding the saw against the guard wheel, will cause it to 
crack. These are all well-known causes of breakage, yet not- 
withstanding the knowledge that all band saws are more or 
less subject to these conditions, too often the cause of fracture 
is attributed to the quality of the steel or over-hardness. 

In justice to the saw manufacturer, due consideration should 
be given the fact, that the saw is only one item, while each and 
every one of the above named causes is a great factor in pro- 
ducing cracks in band saws. 

We receive many letters from band mill owners and oper- 
ators asking our advice as to the best manner to fit, tension, 
and operate the saws to attain the best results in respect to 
quantity and quality of the lumber made and at the same 

84 ■ 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



time to get the most wear out of the saws. The best advice 
we can give our band-mill friends is to employ experienced and 
skillful bandsaw fitters. Such men, compared with inexperienced 
bandmen, will save their wages many times over in the quality 
and quantity of the lumber manufactured, to say nothing of 
the saw bill. Inexperienced men invariably spoil a large pro- 
portion of the lumber manufactured and ruin one or more sets 
of saws before they realize the trouble lies in their lack of 
knowledge. The services of competent bandsaw fitters are 
indispensable to the successful operation of bandsaws. It is 
impossible to lay down a set of rules to fit all cases, or to answer 
correctly any single one without knowing all the conditions 
under which the saws are run. However the following para- 
graphs will give a few of the most important points in reference 
to the care and management of the band saw which, if followed 
out carefully, will benefit those who have heretofore neglected 
any of these points. 

Vibration is one of the greatest causes of bad results in the 
use of band saws and, knowing this, particular attention should 
be given to the wheels and their shafts, the journals and boxes. 
The wheels must be round and in perfect balance and the shafts 
must run free in their boxes with no lost motion. 

Band mill builders are giving less crown to the wheels than 
they were a few years back, — some are making flat wheels. 
Each style has its advocates and will give good results when 
properly handled. As some mill builders give l/64th of an inch 
crown in a 12-inch face wheel, it seems a question of education 
or preference with the operators. 

Perfectly uniform tension is the important point, for if a 
saw has fast and loose spots in it, the tendency to crack is 
largely increased, the fast spot cracking from undue tensile strain 
and the loose spot from constant buckling of surplus metal. 

The principal tools required for tensioning band saws are 
an anvil, leveling block, a cross face hammer, a round or dog 
head hammer, a twist face hammer, each weighing about 3^ 
pounds, and a roll saw-stretcher (see page 109, for complete out- 
fit). The anvil should have a flat face and be perfectly true. 
Strike light fair blows, using care not to cut or mark the surface 
of the saw with the hammer, as cracks are apt to start from 
such marks, particularly when occurring near the edges. 



85 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



Instructions for Setting Up and Operating Band Saw Mills 



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Fig. 89 

86 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



DIRECTIONS FOR LEVELLING AND 
TENSIONING BAND SAWS 

Large bandsaws, when running idle, should travel in a true 
plane, with the cutting-edge projecting over the edge of the 
wheels about the full length or depth of the teeth. This can 
be accomplished only by true alignment of shafts, proper tilt 
of wheels and, as regards the saws, accurately made brazes, 
correct tension, right amount of hook to the teeth for the kind 
of timber to be cut, properly swaged and fitted. Assuming the 
foregoing adjustments have been made, the saws will travel 
in a true plane and hold their position on the wheels without 
any material lateral motion either in or out of the cut. 

Tension means strain and is obtained by stretching the 
blade between the edges with the tensioning rolls or hammer. 
If a hammer is used, one with a round face is preferred. The 
saw must be made flat or level before tensioning. Examine 
carefully with a straight-edge for lumps across and lengthwise, 
trace lumps to their full extent and remove by striking with a 
long or a cross-face hammer as the direction of the lump may 
require. Be careful not to cut the lump into several small 
ones by spreading the blows. Hammer lightly and closely, — 
the nearer the blows come together the better. Examine fre- 
quently with the straight-edge. Reverse the saw occasionally 
for inspection, as a beginner is apt to hammer more than is 
necessary, thus dishing the blade. A little practice and close 
attention will soon enable the learner to flatten or level the 
saws correctly. 

The next operation after levelling the saw is to examine for 
tension by using a tension gauge. 

The proper amount of tension varies according to the feed 
of the mill and crown of the wheel, but under no circumstances 
do we think it judicious from any point of view to put in so much 
tension that the saw will not lie flat from its own weight on 
the levelling table. 

Raise the saw, as shown in Fig. 90, holding the tension 
gauge at right angles to the blade. Mark all fast spots with a 
crayon, tracing from the beginning and end of each spot. The 
fast spots are indicated where the centre of the blade shows 
as a lump under the tension gauge as in Fig. 90. 

Roll or hammer between marks until the saw shows under 
the tension gauge as seen in Fig. 91. Test after each line 

87 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



through the rolls. Roll from the centre of the blade to within 
about three-quarter of an inch of the edges. If the hammer 
is used for tensioning, the blows must be appHed on both sides 
of the blade to prevent dishing. Do not tension on a cast iron 
block, which is to be used onl}^ when lumps are being removed. 
A hard-faced anvil should alwaj^s be part of the equipment. 




Fig. 90. Showing lump or "fast" spot 

Examine with a straight-edge each time a roll or hammer 
is used for tensioning and remove Siny lumps which may have 
developed. If too much drop shows under the tension gauge, 
as shown in Fig. 92, roll or hammer on both edges until the 
drop properly fits the gauge on both sides of the saw. 

Examine the back-edge of the saw with a back gauge. See 
Fig. 93. Mark the extent of the hollow on the back of the 
saw, if there be one, and roll or hammer from mark to mark. 
Begin at the centre of the saw and work to the back edge by 

88 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



rolling parallel with the saw. Repeat, if necessary, until the 
back is stretched to fit the gauge. If the back should be full 
or lumpy, follow the same course, working from the centre of 
the blade towards the tooth-edge. 

Examine the saw with a straight-edge for lumps and with a 
tension gauge for irregular tension. Make corrections as the 




Fig. 91. "Drop" in blade fits tension gauge 

work progresses. When ready for the wheels, the saw should 
lie flat on the levelling block and fit the tension gauge on both 
sides when curved and tested as in Fig. 91. 

Fig. 95 shows the test for tension on the up bend or 
outside curve with a short straight-edge. If the saw is correctly 
tensioned an almost perfect curve will show under the straight- 
edge between both edges of the saw. If it shows flat, trace its 
extent and stretch it with a roll or hammer until it shows an 
even curve. 

89 



DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 



After the saw has been properly tensioned it should be ac- 
curately fitted. The swaging and fitting of the teeth are prac- 
tically the same as in a full swaged circular saw. The swaging 
is side dressed or shaped to a uniform width with an under and 
back cut in order to leave the extreme point of tooth a trifle 
wider than the rest of the tooth. The full amount of swage 




Fig. 92. Too much "drop" under tension gauge 

when side dressed should never exceed No. 8 gauge in a 14 
gauge saw and for hard timber may be even less. It is advisable 
to run with as little swage as practicable. The tensile strain on 
the saw, the power required, and the waste of lumber in the 
kerf depend to a certain extent on the degree of swaging. It 
is also necessary to re-sharpen handsaws frequently. Many 
saws are ruined because they are run after they have become 
dull. No band saw should be run longer than two and a half 
hours on one sharpening. 

90 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



Well tensioned and well fitted handsaws, when properly 
handled, will stand the maximum feed and manufacture good 
lumber. But, after the corners of the saws become worn or 
dull the saws will dodge or leave the line, which has the 
effect of destroying the tension and fracturing the saws. 

In sharpening use a medium soft emery wheel and do not 
crowd it on its work as this would result in case-hardening the 
gullets. Cracks are liable to start from any of these case- 
hardened spots. 




Fig. 93. Testing the back of the saw 

Do not give the teeth sharp gullets. This concentrates the 
bend of the saw too much at one point as it runs over the wheels. 
Use a round gullet, as large as practicable, with no sharp corners 
or abrupt angles. 

Never let the back edge of the saw come in contact with 
the back guard wheel or any other hard surface, as case-harden- 
ing is bound to ensue from which cracks will surely result. 
Should the saw be accidentally forced against the guard and 
case-hardened, remove the glaze at once by holding a piece of 
soft emery wheel against the back edge while the saw is run- 
ning slowly. Do not take for granted that the back edge of the 
saw has not been in contact with the guard wheel. Try a file 
on the edge of the saw frequently, as only one revolution with 

91 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



Fig. 94. Tension gauge 
Made in lengths from six to twelve inches, with curved_ edge 
adapted to face of the wheels and the tension required. 

the back edge against the guard is necessary to bring about 
case-hardening. This is done so quickly that it often happens 
without the knowledge of the operator. 




Fig. 95. Testing tension on the up-bend 

The majority of the large mills are now using the roller 
or stretching machine for putting in the tension. The desired 
effect can be attained in a shorter time and with less injury 
to the saw than if the tension were put in by a hammer. It 
is necessary, however, to use the hammer for finishing and 
regulating, after the use of the stretcher. 

TWISTS— HOW TO LOCATE AND REMOVE 

THEM 

Twists in band saws are termed as follows: long-face, cross- 
face, and double. The terms ''long-face" and ''cross-face" 

92 



DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 




Fig. 96. Trimming from a finished Disston Bandsaw 
This strip of steel was purposely twisted into this shape. 
It is one of the severest tests to which a tempered piece of 
steel could be subjected. It shows the superiority of the 
tension holding cutting-edge and the setting or swaging 
qualities of Disston Band Saw Steel. 

come from the hammer used in the removal of twists. The 
long-face and cross-face hammer is that one which has two 
faces; one, a long face in line with the handle, the other at right 
angles with the handle. 




Fig. 97. Position for hammering 
long face twist. 



93 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



A long-face twist is that which requires the use of the long- 
face hammer, and is determined in the saw by the way the 
saw lies when resting on the floor. If the filer is standing at 
the end of saw and the opposite end inclines to the right, that 
is a long-face twist, and must be taken out by the filer at the 
bench standing with his left to the saw and hammering diag- 
onally across the saw with the long-face hammer. 




Fig. 98. Position for hammering cross face twist 



On the other hand, should the saw be inclined to the left 
at the opposite end, that would be a cross-face twist and should 
be removed with a cross-face hammer while the filer is standing 
with his left side to the saw striking diagonally with a cross- 
face hammer. 

Most twists in handsaws are due to accidents while the 
saws are running, such as striking iron, or dodging in or out of 
the cut. In such cases the twist generally runs clear around the 
saw, and the filer, after determining whether it is a long-face 
or cross-face twist, proceeds to hammer by placing the blows 
very close together from edge to edge all around the saw. When 
one side is covered, hammer the opposite side in same manner 
as the first, which will cross the blows of the first side. When 
the second side is covered, place the saw on the floor and note 
the effect. If there has not been enough hammering repeat 
until the saw stands evenly on the floor. 

94 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 




Fig. 99. This shows a band saw with a cross face twist. 

A double twist means that saw has both kinds, and they 
must be located by the way the saw lies on the leveling table. 
Trace with a straight-edge as though hunting for lumps, but 
hold the straight-edge diagonally on the saw. If the saw shows 
a hollow, examine across the hollow where a diagonal lump is 
likely to show. This should be hammered in the direction 
indicated by straight-edge. Mark the opposite side of the saw, 
trace in the same manner, and the twist will be seen to run 
across the lump taken out on the other side. Trace as at first 
and hammer until the lump removed. 

95 



DI88TON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



Examine for tension in the meantime and if any fast places 
are found, open them with the roll, as it is impossible to remove 
twists while the saw is long on the edges. 

THE CARE OF BANDS AW TEETH 

If the saw chatters in the cut, runs snakey at times, and 
does not make the lumber as smooth as it should, the ditficulty 
may be in carrying too nuich swage, particularly when sawing 
hardwood. I^sually about three gauges more than the thickness 
of the saw is sufficient. Sometimes even a trifle less than this 
will work satisfactorily provided the blade is perfectly flat and 
evenly tensioned. Make sure that the teeth are properly 
dressed after s^\\aging, otherwise they soon become dull, or the 
slender corners drop olf. 

The eccentric swage, in forcing out the corners, causes a 
depression or dent just under the points of the teeth. To face 
the teeth properly the fronts of the teeth nuist be ground suffi- 
ciently to take out most of this depression and to thicken the 
points to the required stoutness with which to stand the shock 
of cutting through knots without dropping corners. Swage 
just enough — no more — to get a dressing on the corners. If 
too nnich, the points will buckle when shaped. By compressing 
more than is necessary the points are apt to be injured, causing 
them, in many instances, to drop off. Therefore it is best to 

swage lightly and it will not be necessary 
to shape heavily. 

When the teeth are all thoroughly swaged 
and shaped, examine with a set gauge, see 
Fig. 100, to see if any are bent. Test by 
holding the gauge on each side alternately 
as shown in Fig. 101. If an^^ of the teeth are 
out of line, bend them Avith a set wrench as 
in Fig. 102, to the right or left as may be re- 
quired, until all are even. Extreme care 
should be taken to have all the teeth in a 
perfect line, for any of the teeth, if even 
slightly bent, will cut roughly and in passing 
through the board will naturally incline out 
of the cut, frequently breaking off'. 

After the teeth are nicely swaged, shaped, 
and straightened, the saw is ready for the 
automatic sharpener. Unless care is used 
96 



^ 



Fig, mo. The set gauge 



DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 




Fig. lUl. Application of set gauge 




Fig. 102. Straightening tooth with set wrench 

97 



DTSSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



in operating this machine all the good work just done will 
be spoiled. Bear in mind that the points are delicate. Do not 
tr}^ to get the work done in one time around the saw, but cut 
lightly several times until the teeth are well faced. This does 
not mean to take out all the depression made by the swage, but 
most of it. Of course, enough cutting must be done in the 
gullets and on the backs to keep the teeth in shape, and ground 
to point, as the automatic sharpener will keep the teeth even 
when all are brought up to a cutting edge. If the}^ are not 
ground to point there will be high and low teeth. 

Remember that too slender a tooth will cause chattering in 
the cut, and will make "wash-board" lumber. 

Look after the sharpener frequently. Do not allow lost 
motion. Remember that emery dust will get into the running 
parts and cut. If this is not cleaned out the machine soon will 
be missing the teeth. 

Grind the entire surface of the tooth and the gullet every 
time in order to present new steel to the work after each sharp- 
ening operation. 



98 



DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 



STANDARD SHAPES AND SPACING OF TEETH IN 
DISSTON BAND RIP SAWS AND RE-SAWS 

Cany space and depth desired) 




BN \y." 



Fig. 103. Above illustrations full size. Order by letter on illustration and state space desired. 

Special patterns made to order. 

99 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



BAND RIP SAWS AND RE-SAWS 




2G1^" 



Fig. 103. continued 



LOG BAND 

(any space and depth desired) 




I IH 




H IH" 



Fig. 10-i. Above illustrations full size. Order by letter on illustration, and state space desired 

Special patterns made to order. 

100 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



LOG BAND 

(any space and depth desired) 




IJ 2 




X IK" 



Fig. 104 continued. Above illustrations full size. Order by letter on illustrations, and state 
space desired. Special patterns made to order. 

101 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



LOG BAND 

i^an}^ space and depth desired) 




L r 




L IVJ' 



r4 




NR ni" 




C IH" 



Fig. 10-i continued 

102 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 




T 3" 




AT \V/' 




AT 2 



Fig. 104 continued 



BAND CROSS-CUT TEETH 




Fig. 105. Above illustrations full size. Order by letter on illustration, and state space desired 

Special patterns made to order. 

103 



DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 



BRAZING BAND-SAWS 

The process of joining the ends of a band-saw is called 
brazing. 

When cutting off the ends be sure to allow for the proper 
spacing of the teeth. 

Square the ends of the saw carefully, then prepare them 
to be lapped by bevelling the upper side of one end and the 
lower side of the other, by filing, grinding, or milling. The 
laps must be uniform, smooth, flat, and must taper to a knife 
edge. Test with a straight-edge and remove, with a file, any 
high spots, for the closer the laps fit, the less solder will remain 
in the joint and the stronger it will hold. 

Saws up to 7 inches wide should have >^ inch laps; 8, 9, and 
10 inch saws, ^ inch laps; 11 to 14 inch saws, fi inch laps, 
and saws over 14 inches, J^ inch laps, though, of course, wider 
laps may be used, at the discretion of the filer. 

After the ends have been properly scarfed or bevelled, place 
one end at the center of the brazing clamp, directly over the 
irons with the back of the saw against the ledge of the clamp. 
Then tighten the end clamp to hold the blade in place. Posi- 
tion the other end in the same manner. The back edge of 
the saw must be straight and even. The point of the top lap 
must cover and fit the lower lap perfectly, and the points of the 
teeth must be spaced properly. When the ends are secured in 
position, raise the top end and clean the laps with a diluted 
muriatic acid, and wipe dry with clean white waste, or a rag. 
Cut a strip of silver solder a trifle longer, and l/16th of an inch 
wider, than the laps. Clean the solder in the same manner as 
the laps and place it carefully between the laps. Fit the irons, 
which must be straight and even, in the clamp, to raise the 
saw slightly at the brazed point. 

Place the irons in the furnace, and bring them to an even 
cherry-red heat. Just before the irons are ready for application, 
cover the inside of the laps with zinc chloride flux or borax 
paste. As the irons come from the furnace, wipe off the scale. 
Apply them quickly, as originally adjusted, and secure the 
clamp firmly and evenly. As soon as the clamp is tightened, 
loosen the other clamps which hold the saw in position. This 
is to allow for expansion, and insures better finish when the, 
braze is dressed. Remove the irons as soon as they are black 
and cool the brazed part of the saw with oil. At the hammer- 
ing bench, file off the excess solder. 

104 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



As the heating has made the blade very fast at the brazed 
point, open it well with a roll or hammer to fit the tension 
gauge. Trace the lumps with a straight edge and flatten them 
with a hammer. Reverse the saw and hammer the other side 
of the blade until the saw shows the same on both sides, — with 

BRAZING CLAMP 




Fig. 106. This style of clamp for brazing band-saws is furnished up to three inches in width 

a straight edge for flatness, and with a tension gauge for ten- 
sion. When satisfied that the saw is properly flattened and 
tensioned, place a curved block under the brazed portion. 
Clamp the saw to the bench on each side of the block. Then 
file the surface carefully and polish it with emery cloth. Use 
a wire gauge to measure the thickness of the blade and do not 

105 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



reduce it too much. When this operation has been completed, 
test with a straight edge and flatten if necessary. 

Next, cover the brazed part with a heavy oil and heat care- 
fully with a blow torch until the bright part turns a straw color. 
This will stiffen the braze and prevent bending while it is being 
handled. 

Refit and the saw should be ready to run. 

CARE OF BRAZES 

The brazed part of a band saw and about an inch of the 
metal on each side of the braze is a little milder in temper than 
any other part of the blade. 

For that reason this part of the saw is more subject to bends 
when saws are being changed or handled in the filing room. 
Also the brazed part is more liable to '^pull-tension" than any 
other part of the blade. 

Irregularity of tension or bends in a band saw are two of 
the most common causes of cracks. It is, therefore, of great 
importance that the brazes in every band saw should be exam- 
ined at the end of each run. If any bends are found in the 
brazes, or if the tension has pulled to any extent, the bends 
should be straightened and the tension restored before the saws 
are allowed to make another run. 

It must be remembered that the brazed part is the weakest 
part of a saw, and unless the brazes are kept in proper condition, 
the chances of cracks in the saws and possible serious accidents 
will be greatly increased. 




Fig. 107. Lever brazing clamp 

Specially designed for quickness of operation in brazing narrow bandsaws 
up to one inch in width. Made of grey iron, japanned 

One movement of the lever opens the jaws, another closes them, holding 
blade under pressure, firmly in position 

106 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 




Fig. 108 
Lap filing vise 



LAP FILING VISE 
It is essential, for a good joint, 
that the "laps" of handsaws 
should be accurately and uni- 
formly filed. With the assistance 
of this vice the filing is easily 
made square and true. Made of 
grey iron, japanned, hardened 
steel blocks 

BRAZING TORCH 

A convenient and powerful 
heating apparatus 




Fig. 109 
Brazing torch 



DIRECTIONS FOR USING LEVER BRAZING CLAMP 
ON NARROW BANDSAWS 

The parts to be brazed must be cut so the teeth at this 
section will be properly spaced and matched to set alternately. 

Scarf or bevel each end, on opposite sides, to a knife-edge, 
making the laps one-half inch wide on saws 20 gauge and thicker, 
and three-eights of an inch wide on saws under 20 gauge. The 
bevels should be perfectly square and the taper uniform, other- 
wise a good joint cannot be made. 

Clamp the ends of the saw, with the laps in position, in the 
brazing clamp, making sure that the back edge is straight. 
Then cover the surface of the laps with a thin coating of borax 
paste. This is made of powdered borax and rain or distilled 
water. 

Insert between the laps a piece of clean silver solder cut 
to fit, or a trifle larger than, the laps. Apply heat with a gas 
blow-pipe, kerosene or gasoline torch, until the parts are red and 
the solder is melted. Then move the lever to bring the jaws 
of the clamp together, holding the parts firmly until the brazed 
portion is black. Open the clamps and apply flame to reduce 
the temper, as the application of the clamp jaws has had a chill- 
ing effect and hardened the braze. 

A stiff braze is desirable, therefore care should be taken 
not to reduce the stiffness to such a degree that the braze will 
bend easily. 

Straighten the sides and edges with a hammer on an anvil, 
finishing the sides with a file and emery-cloth, maintaining an 
even thickness. If left too thick the braze will catch in the saw- 
guide and break. 

When finished, stiffen with a torch, applying the flame until 
the braze takes on a straw or blue color. 

107 



DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 



BRAZING TONGS 

The foregoing directions also apply when using tongs in 
brazing. The tongs to be used should have suitably sized jaws 
for the joint. They should be heated to a bright red, sufficiently 
to melt the solder. Quickly scrape off all the scale between 
the jaws and hold the joint with the hot tongs until the solder 
has thoroughly melted. Remove the hot tongs carefully and 
repeat the operation with another pair that has been heated 




Fig. 110. Small brazing clamp and tongs 

to show a dull red. This will set the solder and prevent the 
joint from being chilled too suddenly. It would be well to have 
a pair of cold tongs to clamp over the jaws of the hot tongs, 
holding them firmly to the joint, as the hot iron must fit nicely 
and press evenly over the whole width of the saw. Dress the 
joint as described in the instructions for use of the lever brazing 
clamp. 




Weight 8M lbs. 



Fig. 111. Braze finishing clamp for narrow handsaws 

A convenient and handy braze finishing clamp. The upper part of the fasteners, at 

each end, is upheld by a spring, permitting the quick insertion and removal 

of the handsaw. For ease in working, the face of the clamp is curved. 

108 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



BREAKAGE OF SMALL BAND SAWS 

Among the most frequent causes of breakage the following 
may be named: The use of inferior saws of unsuitable gauge 
for the work; pulleys being out of balance or too heavy; the 
use of improper tension arrangements; not slackenmg the saw 
after use thus preventing the free contraction of the saw blade 
cooling down after work; the framing of the machine column 
being too high or too light thus causing excessive vibration; 
the joint in the saw not being of the same thickness as the rest 
of the blade; improper method of receiving the back thrust of 
the saw and consequent case-hardening and cracking of the back 
of the saw blade; using band saws with angular instead of rounded 
gullets at the roots of the teeth; top pulley over-running the saw; 
working dull saws; feeding up the work to the saw too quickly; 
allowing saw dust to collect on the face of the saw-wheel thus 
causing it to become lumpy and uneven. Stopping or starting a 
machine too suddenly especially while using a light blade, will 
almost certainly snap a saw in two. 

Always endeavor to have a full knowledge of the v/orking 
and condition of each saw in your charge and examine each 
blade carefully as it comes off the wheels. Close application in 
studying the conditions under which the saw works, along 
with good judgment as to when it is properly fitted for its par- 
ticular work, is what is wanted in every filer who wishes his band 
saw to run successfully. 

LIST OF MACHINES AND TOOLS TO MAKE 

COMPLETE OUTFIT FOR BAND SAW 

FILING ROOM 

1 Automatic sharpener 1 Back guage 5 or 6 feet long 

1 Roll saw stretcher 1 Short straight edge 

1 Scarfing machine 1 Tension gauge 

1 Fittmg-up clamp 2 Hammers— 1 cross face 

1 Set of pulleys and stands ^ ^ ^^^^ 

1 Brazmg clamp . t^ , . 

1 Re-toother and shear ^ Eccentric swage 

1 Forge for heating brazing 1 Swage shaper 

irons 1 LeveUing block 

1 Set guage 1 Anvil — hard face 

1 Tooth wrench 10 Inch Disston mill bastard files 

109 



DISSTON LUMBEEMAN S HAND BOOK 



We are prepared to furnish any of the tools on this list and 
will be pleased to supply description with price on any article 
or machine required for keeping, fitting, and repairing saws. 




Fig. 112. Clamp for wide band saws 

BRAZING CLAMP FOR WIDE BAND-SAWS 

This Fig. 112 is the style of clamp used in the Disston Band- 
Saw Department for brazing wide band-saws. 

ECCENTRIC SWAGE FOR BAND-SAWS 

These are made in three sizes. No. 1, adapted for saws 12 to 
16 gauge; No. 2, 16 to 19 gauge; No. 3, 20 gauge and lighter. By use 
of extra brackets this tool can be used for cylinder and circular 
saws. When ordering, state thickness of the saws on which 
the swage is to be used and send a sketch of the teeth. 

110 



DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 



When the Disston Eccentric Swage is ordered, in the ab- 
sence of other instructions, the No. 1 will be adjusted for our 
standard pattern of L tooth, 1^ inch spacing, per full size cut 
of tooth shown. 




Fig. 113. Eccentric swage for band saws 




Fig. 114. The LI %" tooth 



When ordering, specify the number of part and state whether 
for No. 0, 1, 2, or 3 Eccentric swage. (No. for circular saws.) 

SWAGE SHAPER FOR BAND AND GANG SAWS 

Having each tooth in a band or gang saw of the same width 
is quite as important as having them of a uniform length. 

This swage shaper is the best tool of its kind on the market. 
It combines solidity with simplicity, and has very few parts to 
get out of order. No wrench is necessary; the shaper can be 
taken apart by the loosening of three thumb-screws. The 
dies fit snugly in the body, and will not twist or come out of 
line. 

Ill 



DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 




Fig. 115. Swage shaper for band and gang saws 
Patented October 27, 1914 






A. Plain B. Swaged C. Swaged and Shaped 

Fig. 116. A, B, and C show three stages in shaping teeth 

All wearing parts are made of the best tool steel, accurately 
machined and milled to a perfect fit. 

Thi> swage shaper is designed to make all the teeth uniform 
in width and at the same time to give them the ''back" and 
''under-cut" necessary for proper clearance and smooth sawing. 
It can be adjusted readily to shape the teeth on saws of any thick- 
ness rapidly. 

When ordering, it is necessary to state the thickness of saw 
and the space of the teeth on which the shaper is to be used. 

SWAGE SHAPER 

Do not neglect your swage shaper. Examine it from time 
to time, after considerable use, to see if the dies are becoming 
worn by reason of the saw teeth frequently coming in contact 
with the same spot. If they are worn, then the swage on the 
teeth is not given sufficient back clearance to allow the side- 
dress to do its work without unnecessary friction. A saw with 
teeth improperly side-dressed will run "snakey." Keeping the 
dies in good condition and properh^ adjusted means a saving in 
labor and expense. 

HOLDER FOR GRINDING SWAGE SHAPER DIES 

With this adjustable holder a die is ground quickly and 
uniform^, without the use of a gauge. 

112 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 




Fig. 117. Holder for grinding swage shaper dies 

Positions 1 and 2 are for grinding the angles which must 
be of equal length on each pair of dies. Position 3 is for short- 
ening the die and squaring the face. It is necessary to grind 
the face only when the dies are of unequal length or when the 
bevel becomes too long. 

This tool can be used on the table of any grinding machine, 
the only requirement being a stop-plate for the holder to rest 
against. 

Furnished free with each swage shaper. 

STOP PLATE FOR GRINDING TABLE 




Fig. 118 



This illustration shows how the stop plate for the holder to rest 
against is screwed to the wheel side of the grinding table. 

HAND-SCREW PRESS 




Band saw attachment 

Fig. 119. No. 2 press, fitted for gumming band saws 

This press is made in two sizes or weights,^ and in a style 

113 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



rendering it strong and durable for punching, slotting, toothing, 
or shearing purposes. 

The No. 1 press weighs 460 pounds, and is adapted for 
gumming saws or punching steel up to 5 gauge (7/32 inch) in 
thickness. 

The No. 2 press weighs 250 pounds and will gum saws up to 
8 gauge (5/32 inch) in thickness. 

The above illustration shows the No. 2 press fitted for 
retoothing band saws. Special dies and punches, or shear ^ 
blades will be furnished on order. i 

This is a very desirable and powerful machine, and we 
recommend it as superior to any other pattern for retoothing 
band, gang, and other saws, as well as for general purposes. 



MOHAWK BAND-SAW GUIDE 

An important and vital feature of a band saw machine is 
the saw guide. To insure even and easy running it is necessary 
that the blade should move with all possible freedom and the 



I 




Fig. 120 

No. 1. Guide complete for saws up to 1 inch wide 
No. 2. Guide complete for saws up to 2 inches wide 

best guide is one that offers the least resistance to the motion 
of the blade. 

The above cut illustrates a guide calculated to prevent 
the friction at the back of the blade. The wheel forming the 
back-guide has a concave surface on its periphery, and is set 
on an angle so that the back of the saw passes diagonally across 
the periphery of the wheel and revolves it. Thus the point of 
bearing of the wheel against the back of the saw is constantly 
changed and prevents the saw from grooving the surface of the wheel 
by a continued action in any one place. The saw has a bearing 

114 



DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 



of 11/16 of an inch at the back and will not twist or turn even if 
the side pieces are removed. The wheel runs on ball-bearings. 
It requires very little oil, and is always in proper position. 
The shouldered-screw adjusts for saws of different widths. The 
thumb-screw at the side adjusts for different gauges. Wood 
and metal side pieces are sent with each guide. 

IMPROVED SETTING MACHINE 
FOR NARROW BAND-SAWS 




Fig. 121. Narrow band-saw setting machine 

This is a simple, practical, and durable tool. It will set saws 
ys" to l>^''wide, with teeth 1/16'' to %'' space, setting the 
points of the teeth uniformly. The vise, automatically gripping 
the blade while the tooth is being set and prevents twisting 
when used on narrow saws. 

The machine should run 100 revolutions per minute, enabling 
the operator to set a saw in four to five minutes. 

AUTOMATIC FILING MACHINE 
FOR NARROW BAND-SAWS 

This tool is simple, efficient, and accurate. It is strongly made 

easily adjusted, and requires no attention after it has been 
started. 

115 



1 



PlSsroN irMlU'h'M.WS u,\m> Hc^C^R 




Fig. 122. Narrow band-saw filing machine 

It \vill take saws ^ s' to IJ2" wide, with teeth l/ltV^ to ^^" 
space, and will tile old saws with uneven teeth as perfectly as 
new ones. It all teeth are filed to the same height, the saws will 
stay sharp longer. Each tooth doing its proportionate amount of 
work prevents breakage. 

This machine uses tV" taper saw files, and should run 50 to 
60 revolutions per minute. 



lUi 



RECIPROCATING SAWS 

(iSawfl which move up and down or back and forth, such as cross-cut hhwh, 
drag KawH, mill huwh, gang hhwh, pit .saws, etc.) 




y UlS!,%n,.„„_ 



Fig. 12;{. Mill haw 






bin. 12^. (Jang i^aw 



*■ — — ' ■ // ////, ,,,-,/ //v , ,'/ .' ' 






Fig. 12.5. Pit saw 



Fig. 126. Tapered butting or drag sawe. Power or moU^r driven 



We manufacture a complete line of mill, mulay, gang, deal, 
drag, pit, whip, futtock, pond ice, and hand ice .saws, — in 
fact, all varieties of saws in use. They are made of a Disston 
Steel peculiarly adapted to withstand the strains to which these 
saws are subjected when in use. For quality of material, tem- 
per, tension, and edge-holding qualities they have no equal. 

117 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



DRAG-SAWS FOR MOTOR-DRIVEN MACHINES 




Fig. 127. A motor driven drag saw in action 

The advantages of these machines in the saving of time, 
labor, and expense are being more generally recognized. While 
of great benefit to the farmer, who finds it an untiring worker 
in building up his pile of firewood, etc., it is also employed by 
a number of loggers, by shingle, stave, and spoke mills, etc., 
where logs are cut into short bolts, — formerly done by slow, 
laborious handwork. 

We manufacture a special line of drag saws with various 
styles of teeth, to meet the demands of users of these machines. 

TOOLS FOR RE-FITTING DRAW SAWS 

It is of the utmost importance that the teeth of drag saws, 
as with all saws, be maintained in good cutting condition, ' 

118 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



otherwise the results will be very unsatisfactory, — poor lumber, 
uneven cuts, and in addition, extra power and time will be 
consumed in operating a dull saw or one improperly fitted. 

To assist in obtaining uniform results, first in filing, then 
in setting, we fully recommend the use of the Disston No. 2 
Imperial Drag Saw Tool (instructions for the use of this tool are 
similar to those for the Imperial cross-cut saw tools given 
on page 129) and either the No. 1 or No. 2 setting block 
illustrated below. For sharpening use the Disston Imperial Saw 
File, 8 inch. 




Fig. 128. Disston No. 1 Adjustable Setting Block 

The No. 1 block is made of a solid casting. The anvil has 
a chilled face, insuring a good, hard surface. The gauges are 
adjustable to the various widths of set required. 




Fig. 129. Setting hammer. Special in form and weight for setting saws 




Fig. 130. Disston No. 2 Adjustable Setting Block 

119 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



The No. 2 block is made of a solid casting with a removable 
steel anvil. The anvil has four different bevels for different 
patterns of saws. The gauges are adjustable to the various 
widths of set required. Hand saws, cross-cut saws, and drag 
saws can be set on this block. 

CROSS-CUT SAWS 

The perfection of temper in all saws is controlled very largely 
by the quality of the steel. 

As manufacturers of our own steel, being thoroughly familiar 
with its make-up, we are able to adjust the hardening and tem- 
pering processes to a degree which gives that perfect com- 
bination of hardness and toughness which produces the ''edge 
and set-holding qualities" for which the Disston Saws are 
renowned. 

With the possible exception of material and tempering, grind- 
ing is the most important thing in saw-making. Our methods 
and machinery for this work are of our own design and used 
exclusively by us. The Disston process of grinding gives the 
saws the maxinuun amount of clearance without sacrificing their 
elasticity and stiffness. It insures an even thickness on the 
cutting-edges, with a relative and uniform thickness throughout 
the body to a thin or extra thin back. 

In the blocking, polishing, stiffening, and final processes 
of manufacture, the same high order of skill is exercised as in 
the hardening, tempering, and grinding. Saws of the highest 
quality and efficiency that human ingenuity coupled with skill 
is capable of producing, are the result. 

No expense or care is spared in our efforts to produce the 
best saws in the world, and we guarantee that Disston Saws, 
under the same conditions, will run easier, cut faster, and last 
longer than any other brand of saw on the market. 



120 



DLSSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



Illustrations of Different Patterns of Cross-Cut Saw Teeth 



Fig. 131. Cougar. Trademark Registered U. S. Pat. Off. 






Fig. 132. Nevada, No. 497 




i^.Cf;,';r:r;/;r/|f;/j,(;/j;/;;x^£fji,rx;j;/j;)jrxj)/ri;i;fii'5J 



Fig. 133. Perforated Oregon, No. 475 






''I'f 



^"i:,. 



Fig. 134. Oregon, No. 473 



fr 



VjJ 



Mjj 






' >^ ^J^^ 14 ^ilf il M 



Fig. 135. Suwanee, No. 40.1; 



J- A 



^^VJ 



^^ W Vf A ./ ■ 






^ '-^ V\ Vfy/vVy ///^ 7 //i y ;:/ , 



Fig. 136. Virginian, No. 289 

121 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



Illustrations of Different Patterns of Cross-Cut Saw Teeth 



^ plSSTOJV . 






Fig. 137. Lancet, No. 365. Trademark Registered U. S. Pat. Off. 






^ 



'^ — ^ 



Fig. 138. Great American, No. 1. Trademark Registered U. S. Pat. Off. 



Fig. 139. Champion, No. 1 



plSSTOJv ^ 



^//" 



Fig. 140. Lumberman, No. 1. Trademark Registered U. S. Pat. Off. 






i: PEBF ORATE D) 



Fig. 141. Perforated Lance, 477 



v*^ ^r.v, ri :s:,„ 



^/r^/ir.r^i/^^^./^./^/^.^y.^/y^^iv./'/JWVfViri^^^i'r^^^^^^ 



Fig. 142. Diamond, No. 1 

122 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



Illustrations of Different Patterns of Cross-Cut Saw Teeth 



Fig. 143. Plain, No. 1 



plSSTON it 



"*OCi.PHlA-' 



^vy.WVvVVV /Vvv, V V V vv . v^ V ■ xA aa/vwvV\'V\/0A^vVv'VVVvVVVVV'/VVVWV/v V v 

Fig. 144. Tenon, No. 1 






cxvsxEKrssr;' 



Fig. 145. Tuttle, No. 1 

The above patterns represent a general line of cross-cut saw teeth. We make various other 
styles and shapes, however, as shown in our catalogue. 

DISSTON HIGH GRADE CROSS-CUT SAWS 

Particular attention is invited to the merits of the Virginian 
and the Suwanee Cross-cut Saws. These saws are designed 
especially for heavy and rapid cutting, and represent everything 
in the way of material, temper, and workmanship that is most 
desirable in cross-cut saws. The steel is the best that can be 
produced. The widths of plates are fixed at those points which 
our many years of experience and careful observation have 
proved the most advantageous in fast cutting saws. The temper 
is as high as due regard to necessary toughness will admit. 
The shape and spacing of teeth, the size, and the position and 
depth of gullets have much to do with the results to be obtained 
from cross-cut saws. 

Add to this the fact that the saws are ground to a perfectly 
uniform thickness throughout the tooth-edge and tapered to 
an extra thin-back on lines that conform to the breast of the 

123 



mssrox lvmbermax s hand book 



Fig. 146. Virginian, No. 2S9 






V.,..,. ,- ... • . ■ <^:^ .,.,Y, ...■ ■•■■■■" 

Fi^-. Ii7. Su\v;uicc, No. -iiVi 

saws. Then we have saws which for rapid cutting and easy 
''running," have never been equaled. 

Disston FelHng Saws as the name iniphes, these saws are 
made especially for felling timber and differ from the regular 
cross-cut saws only in shape and weight. The high grade steel 
used for our wide saws and the same workmanship are employed 
in the make-up of the felling saTN^s. 



Fig. MS. Cougar Felling, 44S. Trademark Registereil U. S. Pat. Off. For Paoitic Coast 
Fig. 140. Nevada Felling, No. 4iHi. For Paoitic Coas^t 



Fig. 150. Triumph Toledo, 59S. 



The blades are made as narrow as a fair margin of strength 
and a proportionate amount of wear permit. They are ground 
on special lines which give the greatest possible stiffness and at 
the same time the proper clearance to prevent, kerf -binding. 



'■'■ ^ '^^^ ^Mi(M¥m^^r 



Fig. 151. "Beaver" Hollow Baek No. 4i>4 for leiiing and buck sawiu,i? 
Trademark Registered U. S. Pat. Off. 

124 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



The *'Beaver" is a medium width, thin-back, strictly high 
grade saw, designed specially for both felling and buck-sawing, 
and ordinary cross-cutting. 




Fig. 152. "Great American," No. 373, one-man cross-cut saw with 
a supplementary handle. Trademark Registered U. S. Pat. Off. 

This engraving represents a cross-cut saw, especially adapted 
for the use of one man. The ''Great American" one-man cross- 
cut saw is made and ground on the same principle as our 
No. 7 hand saw. We have improved the file for keeping this 
tooth in order, and it should be ordered with the saw. 

Bridge-builders, mill men, railroad and other contractors — 
in fact, all large establishments — will find this a very useful 
tool. For cutting off girders, joists, blocking, or heavy lumber 
of any kind, it is just what is required. This saw will pay for 
itself in a few days, as the labor of one man is saved. 




Fig. 153. Cedar Savage, No. 410, one-man cross-cut saw 

THE RAKER OR CLEANER TOOTH OF CROSS-CUT SAWS 

The question of the proper length or height of the ''Rakers" 
or cleaner teeth in cross-cut saws is frequently brought up and 
statements are sometimes made that the "Rakers" do all the 
work, and therefore should be on line or even with the cutting 
points of the saw. The latter claim will appear ridiculous to 
experienced cross-cut saw users but since new men are con- 
stantly entering the field who are not expert saw fitters, an 
explanation is worth while, for quick progress can only be 
made in profiting by the experience of others. 

When considering the subject of rakers, it must be borne 
in mind that several patterns of saws are made and used with- 
out raker teeth which do good work, especially in dry seasoned 
timber. It was the development of the oross-cut saw for the par- 
ticular use of logging operators which led to the introduction 
of the raker for quick clearing action. 

125 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



In this article we shall dwell only on that type of saw, it 
being a discovery which led to faster cutting; the raker plan- 
ing out and keeping the cut free from sawdust, which would 
interfere with the cutting or scoring teeth. 




Fig. 154 
Plain raker 




Fig. 155. Swaged raker 



When cross-cutting timber or lumber, that is, cutting across 
the grain, the points and edges of the cutting teeth strike the 
fibre of the wood at right angles to its length, severing it from 
the main body on each side of the saw. In other words, the cut- 
ting teeth do the scoring while the rakers plane and clean 
out the remaining ridge of wood which is thrown out in the 
form of a shaving as shown in Fig. 156. 

The scoring teeth properly beveled leave a space between 
the knife-edges of the tooth. This necessitates the employment 
of some agency for the removal of the ridge of wood left between 
the scorings made by the cutting teeth. This action is accom- 
plished by providing, at short intervals, a tooth which is filed 
straight across and left slightly shorter in length than the cutting 
teeth. This tooth is termed a '^Raker" or cleaner by reason of 
its function of raking or planing out the cut. 

We now reach the question: "What is the proper length for 
the raker?" 

Some rakers are left but one one-hundredth of an inch 
shorter than the cutting teeth, and from that anywhere to one 

126 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



thirty-second of an inch, a gauge being used to insure uniformity. 
The length of the raker is determined by the kind and class of 
timber to be cut. For the very hardest and driest woods they 
should be one one-hundredth of an inch shorter than the cutting 
teeth, while for hard, green woods the rakers should be one 
sixty-fourth of an inch shorter than the scoring teeth. From 
that the length varies to an extreme of about one thirty-second 
of an inch when cutting softer woods according to the condition 
of the timber. 

The rakers absolutely must be shorter than the cutting 
teeth, for if they are too long they will not allow the cutting 
teeth to come in proper contact with the work and the saw 





Fig. 156 shaving 



Fig. 157 planing showing "whiskers" 



will not cut freely. Even if just a shght fraction too long they 
will prevent the saw from doing good work and the sawdust 
or thick shavings will have what the woodsmen term "whiskers" 
as shown in Fig. 157. This proves that the rakers are too long, 
for they go below the scoring of the cutters, breaking the fibre 
and tearing it out. 

When the rakers are in this condition the sawing is difficult 
and the saw hard to pull through the cut. On the other hand, 
where the rakers just clean out the cut, leaving a faint mark of 
the scoring teeth, they are then of proper length and the saw 
will cut fast with the least exertion. 

It is well to understand that extra weight is of no benefit 
in a cross-cut saw. The chief points are the cutting teeth, the 
rakers, the grinding or taper, and the quality of the steel which 
naturally is the foundation upon which rests all subsequent 
work. Beyond all other points remember that the rakers are the 
controlling factor of saw efficiency, for if too long they cause the 
saw to ride or jump and prevent the cutting teeth froni scor- 
ing, while if properly fitted they steady the blade, draw it into 
the wood, bringing the cutting teeth into more active work. 

127 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



This article is not based on theory, but is the result of long 
experience and practical tests made in various kinds of woods 
in all parts of the country with saws ''fitted up" with rakers 
of various lengths — from very short rakers to those equal in 
length with the cutting teeth. Each saw was put to actual 
work, and records made of the time consumed in cutting, and 
the number of strokes required to cut a given size log. Con- 
sideration was given also to the power required and the smooth- 
ness of the cut. 







Fig. 158. The cutting teeth score and the rakers plane 

Not one only, but several tests were made of each saw, then 
a comparison of all records determined beyond doubt the par- 
ticular style of ''Fitting" (^. e., length of raker, bevel or fleam 
of tooth, etc.,) productive of greatest results. To make it 
more conclusive, the outcome of these demonstrations agrees 
with the general experience of well-qualified, practical woods- 
men. 

You will see from the foregoing that Disston Saws are made 
for practical use, — not merely to sell, — and when properly 
fitted will run easiest, cut fastest, and last longest. 



128 



CARE OF CROSS-CUT SAWS 

It is a well understood fact, though often unheeded or ne- 
glected, either through carelessness, hurry, or possibly from 
lack of experience, that in order to obtain the highest results 
from any cutting tool that tool must be kept in the best pos- 
sible condition. It matters not how well a tool may be made, 
nor how high the quality, it will render but poor service if not 
kept in proper order. 

This is particularly applicable to saws. As a rule, if the 
user becomes dissatisfied, the blame is placed on the quality 
or style of saw, when usually the saw merely needs resetting 
and re-sharpening. This will make the saw cut faster, and run 
easier, and will lengthen its life. 

With this in view, particular attention is called to instruc- 
tions for setting and sharpening or fitting cross-cut saws with 
the use of the new and improved Disston Imperial Cross-cut 
Saw Tools. These, if properly foUowed, will enable the sawyer 
to obtain better and greater results with the least possible 
exertion. 

DISSTON IMPERIAL CROSS-CUT SAW TOOLS 

This set of tools includes a jointer, raker-tooth gauge, 
setting block or anvil, and setting gauge. 

We call special attention to the following points in the make- 
up of the IMPERIAL: 

The parts that rest and slide on the cutting teeth of the 
saw, while ' 'cutting down raker," in all tools are subject to the 
greatest wear. In the Imperial these parts are not only 
made of high-grade steel, specially hardened, to give great 
durability, but are also easily detached by the mere loosening 
of a screw. This, while holding the parts firmly, also permits 
of renewal of worn parts, thus prolonging indefinitely the effi- 
ciency of the tool, and overcoming a feature so objectionable 
in other cross-cut saw tools. 

129 



DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 



The raker gauge is also made of steel and hardened to such 
a degree that the best superfine file will not cut it. 

Another important feature, found in no other cross-cut saw 
tool, is the improvement in the screw adjustment to set the 
raker gauge, whereby the gauge can be adjusted to the smallest 
fractional part of an inch to obtain the particular length of 




Fig. 159 

raker desired. When adjusted and locked with the two lock- 
nuts on the lower end of raker gauge, the gauge cannot work 
loose and will remain in its position indefinitely, requiring read- 
justment only when a different length of raker is desired to suit 
the changes necessitated by the kind of timber to be cut. 

Notice the long bossed rib which forms a rest for the jointer 
file, and affords a firm bearing. The slight curve which is given 
to the file insures quick, direct action on the teeth. 

The material entering into the make-up of the Imperial 
Cross-cut Saw Tools is the best that can be procured for the pur- 
pose, the workmanship is most thorough, and we unhesitatingly 
pronounce it a cross-cut saw tool that fills a long-felt want. 

Setting and Sharpening (or **Fitting") with the 

^'IMPERIAL" 

To fit up a cross-cut saw properly, it is necessary: 
First — That the teeth be uniform in length. To accomplish' 
this, place a file edgewise in the frame and secure it by thumb- 
screws. Pass the tool lightly over the teeth until the file touches 
the shortest cutting tooth. See Fig. 160. 

Seco7id — Where swaged rakers are used, the swaging should 
follow the jointing. The two points of the rakers are first filed 
to sharp edges without reducing their length, after which each 
raker point should be swaged or bent outward and downward 
by the use of the swaging hammer as shown in Fig. 161. This 
reduces the length of the rakers from 1/100 to 1/32 of an inch ac- 
cording to the kind of timber to be cut. The uniformity in the 

130 



DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 



length or height of raker points can readily be gauged by the 
use of the graduated gauge as shown in Fig. 163. 

The faces of the gauge are marked from one to six, the 
gauge being held rigid by a small roundhead screw. To adjust 
the gauge loosen the screw and turn the gauge so that the face op- 
posite the number wanted projects above and parallel with the 
steel plate, against which the teeth of the saw rest. Then 
tighten the screw. The points of the rakers should just touch 
the face of the gauge. The face marked (1) makes the raker 
1/125 of an inch shorter than cutting teeth; (2) 1/64: (3) 1/50- 
(4) 1/40; (5); 1/35 (6) 1/32. 




Fig. 160. Jointing 



Third — To "^^" the straight or unswaged raker — where pre- 
ferred — place the gauge over the raker teeth, as shown in Fig. 
162, adjust for length of raker required, and file them down. Then 
file to a sharp edge. 




Fig. 161. Method of swaging rakers 

Care should be taken to have the rakers shorter than the 
cutting teeth. If the rakers are too long they will not allow 
the cutting teeth to come in proper contact with the work and 

131 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



the saw will not cut freely. For the very hardest and driest 
woods the raker should be 1/100 part of an inch shorter than the 
cutting teeth. For hard green wood the rakers should be 1/64 of 
an inch shorter than the cutting teeth, and graduated from 
1/64 to 1/32 of an inch, according to conditions and timber when 
cutting softer wood. 




Fig. 162. Filing raker tooth 

Fourth — When filing, bring each tooth to a keen cutting edge, 
taking care not to reduce the length of the tooth any more 
than is necessary to remove the marks of jointing. The amount 
of bevel to the tooth should be determined by the class of 
timber to be cut. Hard wood requires less bevel than soft wood. 




Fig. 163. Graduated gauge 

Figures 164 A and 165 B illustrate a style of ^'fitting" which we 
strongly recommend, particularly for very hard or dry stock. 
This style of fitting produces a long knife-like edge which, through 
a shearing cut, readily severs the fibre of the hardest wood. 

Note particularly how the saw is filed when new and keep it 
as near that shape as possible. 

-Fifth— li a saw requires setting, lay the block or anvil, Fig. 166, 
on some convenient flat, solid surface and hold the saw so 
that the point of the tooth projects over the beveled edge of 
the anvil about one-quarter of an inch. Give two or three 

132 



DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 



blows with a light hammer, striking the tooth always about 
one-quarter of an inch from the point. It is very important 




Fig. 164 A 



that the ''set" should be perfectly uniform, that is, exactly the 
same amount of set to all teeth. This can be regulated by 




Fig. 165 B 

the use of a set gauge, Fig. 167. The amount of set required is largely 
determined by the kind of timber to be cut and the manner in 
which the saw is ground. The Disston extra thinback saws when 

133 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 





Fig. 166. Setting block 



Fig. 167. Set gauge 



properly filed do not require more than 1/100 part of an inch - 
set to each side of the saw in general sawing, and can be run with 
less set in hard, firm-grained timber. 

HAMMER AND ANVIL 

For Setting the Teeth of Cross-Cut Saws 

High grade cross-cut saws are necessarily made with a 
special temper for the purpose of holding their set and cutting- 
edges the longest possible time. Being so high in temper, it is 
almost an impossibility to set them with the old-fashioned lever 
spring-setting device. Hence the demand for tools that will 




Fig. 169. Setting hammer and anvil 



134 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 




do the v/ork properly and with the least trouble. 
This led to the method shown in Fig. 168 which 
is so plain in its operation that it needs no 
explanation. These tools are the simplest for 
setting cross-cut saws. Both the hammer and anvil 
are made of tool steel and fully guaranteed. 

The hammer is of a weight best adapted for 
the setting and swaging of saw teeth. The anvil, 
octagon shape, is 1^ inches in diameter, 5 inches 
long, which gives the necessary body and weight. 
The faces are accurately machined to give them 
a good true bearing and proper angles to form 
the set. This enables the filer to adjust the set 
to the exact degree suitable for the character of 
timber to be cut, the setting being done while 
the saw is in the vise or filing clamp. 
To secure the best results from cross-cut saws they must 
be properly set and sharpened, which can only be accomplished 
by an experienced filer supplied with proper tools. The setting 
hammer and anvil herewith illustrated, and the Disston Im- 
perial Cross-cut Saw Tools, are recommended as best for the 
purpose. 

DISSTON HANDLES FOR CROSS-CUT SAWS 



Fig. 170 

Adjustable set 

gauge for 
cross-cut saws. 

A light and con- 
venient gauge 
for regulating 
the set on teeth 
of cross-cut and 
one-man saws. 



All Disston Handles are made 
of carefully selected, well-sea- 
soned wood; beech and maple 
being principally used, and are 
of such shape as to give a com- 
fortable grip. The fittings used 
are of best malleable iron, well 
made and finished, and of de- 
signs particularly adapted for 
the purpose. 

Some patterns of handles are 
made to fit on the saw. In the 
loop handle, for instance, the 
loop is slipped over the end of 
the blade, and is then tightened 
by turning the handle. Others 
are adjusted to the edge of the blade. The pin of the 

135 




Fig. 171 

Old Climax 
No. 103. 



Fig. 172 
Sectional View 

No. 122 
This handle has 
a heavy, malle- 
able iron cap 
withalongneck, 
tapped for a loop 
rod. The wood is 
thoroughly sea- 
soned and well 
finished. The 
heavy ferrule is 
of malleable 
iron. There is 
an anti-friction 
washer. The 
loop rod is of 
malleable iron, 
extra heavy and 
strong. The 
threads are 
well-cut. 





bolt is 



DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 



I 




^^^~ 



Fig. 173 A. No. 113. A reversible handle 




Fig. 174 B. No. 113. (Reversed) 



inserted in a hole at the end of the saw, and is tightened by 
screwing up a thumb-nut. 

The most perfect handle is one, which while strong and 
durable, permits of a quick adjustment and removal. Particu- 
larly so is this the case with those used for felling saws, where 
it is often necessary to remove the handle to withdraw the 
saw from the cut the moment the tree is about to fall. 

Another important feature in certain patterns is the fact 
that they are reversible, thus enabling the use of the saw in 
various positions. 



i 



136 



FILES 



^ 



r-.. 



Fig. 175 



Fig. 176 



Fig. 177 



Fig. 178 



Fig. 179 



Fig. 181 



SLIM TAPER 



TAPER 



S<ii ARE 



BLUNT RAND 



MILL 



HALF ROUND 



HALF ROUND WOOD RASP 



iiifiS, 



a*i,»?i?i;3iii 





For a manufacturer to make a good file is one thing. For a 
manufacturer to make every file a good file is another, and much 
more important thing. 

137 



DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK 



Disston Files are known everywhere for their uniform good 
quality. One reason they are preferred is because buyers know 
that every Disston File is a good file. 

Disston Files are made from the famous Disston Steel. Hav- 
ing our own steel works, we can have always just the grade of steel 
best suited for the purpose. 

We are one of the pioneer file makers of the country, and many 
of our file makers have spent their lives in the Disston File Shops 
— real expert workmen who are on the job year in and year out. 

Much of our file-making machinery was invented or developed 
in our own plant. Workmen who have made a life study of file- 
making, naturally have developed machines that make better 
files — and make every file a better file. 

We use over 35,000 dozen Disston Files in our own factory 
every year for filing Disston Saws. This constant use of our own 
product, day after day, gives us an absolute and definite check on 
quality and on uniformity. 

It is the combination of these things — absolute control of the 
quality and uniformity of our own steel, expert workmanship, 
machinery developed in our own plant, and a constant check on 
the efficiency of our files — that allows us to guarantee every 
Disston file. 



138 



MACHINE KNIVES 

To produce good knives there are three important requisites, 
— good steel, good temper, and good workmanship. D.'sston 
Knives have attained their enviable reputation through care- 
ful and constant attention to these three points. 

All our steel is made especially for the purpose intended, 
and of a superior quality. The welding of the steel face to 
the back in Disston Knives insures the strongest union 
possible, — see Fig. 184. The temper cannot be excelled for 
uniformity and toughness, and our workmanship is the best 
that skilled labor can produce. 



BACK , 



Fig. 184. This cross section of a Disston machine knife shows 
how the face is welded to the back 

We are prepared to furnish knives of any size or kind for 
cutting wood, paper, and metal, including planer, chipper, 
hog, moulding, spoke, stave, stave jointer, mitre, paper trim- 
ming, veneer, and bobbin knives, shear and stop cutter blades, 
moulding cutter blanks, etc. 

In ordering planer and similar knives with slots, place a 
sample knife face down on a piece of paper and mark around it 
to show the length, position, and size of slots. State width and 
thickness, number of knives wanted and number in a set. Also 
state temper required, whether high to grind only; medium 
to file slowly; soft to file easily. 

All planing machine knives will be made with square backs, 
unless otherwise ordered. 

Orders for moulding knives should be accompanied with 
the sample piece of moulding or an outline drawing of the shape 
of the moulding desired. Otherwise order by pattern number 
as shown in the National Moulding Book, adopted by the Sash, 

139 



DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 



Door, and Blind Manufacturers' Association, and the Yellow Pine 
Association's Moulding Book. Also give the width of the cylinder 
head and the size of the bolt used. 

We are pleased to furnish information at all times regarding 
knives, also diagram sheets for marking out patterns of knives. 




LISTING OR STAVE JOINTING KNIFE 





CHIPFEK K.MIE 



HOG KNIFB 




i-,ii l,ii kMFE 



Back Knives 
Barker Knives 
Beading Knives 
Beveled Edge Steel 
Chipper Knives 
Concaved Knives 



Convexed Knives 
Excelsior Knives 
Gaining Cutters 
Hog Knives 
Hoop Knives 
Jointer Bits 
Jointer Knives 

Fig. 185 



Listing Knives 
Matcher Bits 
Moulding Cutters 
Moulding Cutter 

Blanks 
Paper Knives 



Veneer Knives, flat or spiral 



Planer Knife Steel 
Shingle Jointer 
Siding Knives 
Stave Knives 
Tenon Machine 
Cutters 



In our own factory we use quantities of planer knives, moulding 
knives, shear blades, etc. Therefore we have a practical knowledge 
of what they should do, and make them so they will do it. 

140 



TABLE Shows the Value of the DISSTON 

WIRE GAUGE which Corresponds 

Exactly with Stubb's English 

Gauge 

In decimal and fractional parts of an inch. The table also 
shows the weight of a square foot of sheet steel. 





Fraction- 


Decimals 


Weight 




Fraction- 


Decimals 


Weight 


Gauge 


al Part of 


of an 


Sq. Feet 


Gauge 


al Part of 


of an 


Sq. Feet 


Number 


an Inch 


Inch 


Pounds 


Number 


an Inch 


Inch 


Pounds 


00000 


1/2 


.50 


20.32 


11 




.120 


4.88 




15/32 


.4687 


19.05 


12 


7/64 


.109 


4.44 


0000 




.454 


18.46 


13 




.095 


3.86 




7/16 


.4375 


17.78 




3/32 


.0937 


3.81 


000 




.425 


17.28 


14 




.083 


3.37 




13/32 


.4062 


16.51 




5/64 


.078 


3.18 


00 




.380 


15.45 


15 




.072 


2.93 




3/8 


.375 


15.24 


16 




.065 


2.64 




11/32 


.3437 


13.97 




1/16 


.0625 


2.54 







.340 


13.82 


17 




.058 


2.36 




5/16 


.3125 


12.70 


18 




.049 


1.99 


1 




.300 


12.20 




3/64 


.046 


1.91 




19/64 


.296 


12.07 


19 




.042 


1.71 


2 




.284 


11.55 


20 




.035 


1.42 




9/32 


.281 


11.43 


21 




.032 


1.30 




17/64 


.265 


10.80 




1/32 


.0313 


1.27 


3 




.259 


10.53 


22 




.028 


1.14 




M 


.250 


10.16 


23 




.025 


1.02 


4 




.238 


9.68 


24 




.022 


.90 




15/64 


.234 


9.53 


25 




.020 


.81 


5 




.220 


8.95 


26 




.018 


.73 




7/32 


.2187 


8.89 


27 




.016 


.65 


6 


13/64 


.203 


8.26 




1/64 


.0156 


.64 




3/16 


.1875 


7.62 


28 




.014 


.57 


7 




.180 


7.32 


29 




.013 


.53 




11/64 


.171 


6.99 


30 




.012 


.49 


8 




.165 


6.71 


31 




.010 


.41 




5/32 


.1562 


6.35 


32 




.009 


.37 


9 




.148 


6.09 


33 




.008 


.33 




9/64 


.140 


5.72 


34 




.007 


.28 


10 




.134 


5.45 


35 




.005 


.20 




1/8 


.125 


5.08 


36 




.004 


.16 



141 



DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 



DISSTON STANDARD WIRE GAUGES 




1 



I 



|^i'"«"^ f™^ W'^'^T^ 






■A f ^ - S I ', ' '^ -^ p r- r> rN r r o 
t- . I 1, j i 1 I I I —J 1 — 1 I I — 1 —J . — i - — i ^ 




Fig. 186. No. 1. Small gauge, 1 to 26 





Fig. 187. No. 2. Large gauge, to 29 




V2.W.^ <D cv CD ' ^-=^ 

^"^^ b»rj) tj.-^ • 

Fig. 188. No. 3. to 29 
No. 4. 1 to 26 




Fig. 189. No. 5. 1 to 26 

142 



USEFUL INFORMATION 

To find the circumference of a circle multiply the diameter 
by 3.1416. 

To find the diameter of a circle multiply the circumference 
by .31831. 

To find the area of a circle multiply the square of the diam- 
eter by .7854. 

To find the surface of a ball multiply the square of diameter 
by 3.1416. 

To find the cubic inches in a ball multiply the cube of the 
diameter by .5236. 

To ascertain the heating surface in tubular boilers multiply 
2/3 of the circumference of the boiler by the length of the boiler 
in inches and add to it the area of all the tubes. The actual 
effective heating surface of a tube, however, is only 1}{ times 
its diameter, multiplied by its length. 

One-sixth of the tensile strength of a plate multiplied by 
the thickness of the plate and divided by one-half the diameter 
of the boiler gives a safe working pressure for tubular boilers. 
For marine boilers add 20 per cent, for drilled holes. 

Steam rising from water at its boiling point (212 degrees) has 
a pressure equal to the atmosphere (14.7 lbs. to the square inch). 

To find the horse-power of engines, multiply the area of 
the piston by the average steam pressure. Multiply this product 
by the travel of the piston in feet per minute, divide this product 
by 33,000 and the quotient will be the horse-power. 

NOTE. As there is always a very appreciable difference 
between the pressure of steam in the boiler and on the piston 
we advocate figuring the average steam pressure on the piston 
at one-half the pressure carried on the boilers. The result 
will be nearer the actual power. 

HYDRAULICS 

A cubic foot of water contains 7}4 gallons, or 1,728 cubic 
inches, and weighs 62^ pounds. 

143 



DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 



A gallon of water contains 231 cubic inches, and weighs 
8^2 pounds (U. S. standard). 

The friction of water in pipes is as the square of the velocity. 

The capacity of pipes is as the square of their diameters. 
Doubling the diameter of a pipe increases its capacity four 
times. 

The height of a column of fresh water, equal to a pressure 
of one pound per square inch, is 2.31 feet. (In usual computa- 
tions, this is taken as two feet, thus allowing for ordinary 
friction.) 

To find the area of a piston, square the diameter and mul- 
tiply by .7854. 

Each horse-power of boilers requires 30 lbs. of water from 
feed at a temperature of 100 degrees to steam at 70 lbs. pressure. 

To compute the horse-power necessary to elevate water to 
a given height, multiply the total weight of the column of 
water in pounds by the velocity per minute in feet, and divide 
the product by 33,000. (An allowance of 25 per cent, should 
be added for friction, etc.) 

To compute the capacity of pumping engines, multiply the 
area of the water piston, in inches, by the distance it travels, 
in inches, in a given time. The product divided by 231 gives 
the number of gallons in the time named. 

To find the capacity of a cylinder in gallons, multiply the 
area, in inches, by the length of stroke, in inches, which will 
give the total number of cubic inches; divide this product by 
231 (which is the cubical content of a gallon in inches), and 
the quotient is the capacity in gallons. 

CARE OF BOILERS 

The following rules are compiled from those issued by the 
various Boiler Insurance Companies in this country and Europe, 
supplemented by our own experience. They are applicable 
to all boilers, except as otherwise noted. 

ATTENTION NECESSARY TO INSURE SAFETY 

1. Safety Valves. — Great care should be exercised to see 
that these valves are ample in size and in working order. Over- 
loading, or neglect, frequently leads to the most disastrous 
results. Safety valves should be tried at least once every day 
to see that they will act freely. 

144 



DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 



2. Pressure Gauge. — The steam gauge should stand at 
zero when the pressure is off, and it should show the same 
pressure as the safety valve when that is blowing off. If not, 
then the gauge is wrong, and should be tested by some other 
gauge that is known to be correct. 

3. Water Level. — The first duty of an engineer before 
starting, or at the beginning of his watch, is to see that the 
water is at the proper height. Do not rely on glass gauges, 
floats or water alarms, but try the gauge cocks. If they do 
not agree with the water gauge, learn the cause and correct it. 

4. Gauge Cocks and Water Gauges must be kept 
clean. A water gauge should be blown out frequently, and the 
glasses and passages to the gauges kept clean. The Manchester, 
England Boiler Association attributes more accidents to inat- 
tention to water gauges, than to all other causes put together. 

5. Feed Pump or Injector. — These should be kept in 
perfect order, and be of ample size. No make of pump can be 
expected to be continuously reliable without regular and care- 
ful attention. It is always safe to have two means of feeding 
a boiler. Check valves and self-acting feed valves should be 
frequently examined and cleaned. Satisfy yourself frequently 
that the valve is acting when the feed pump is at work. 

6. Low Water. — In case of low water, immediately cover 
the fire with ashes (wet if possible), or any earth that may be 
at hand. If nothing else is handy use fresh coal or saw dust. 
Draw the fire as soon as it can be done without increasing the 
heat. Do not turn on the feed, start or stop the engine, or lift 
the safety valve until the fires are out, and the boiler cooled 
down. 

7. Blisters and Cracks. — These are liable to occur in 
the best plate iron. When the first indication appears there 
must be no delay in having it carefully examined and properly 
cared for. 

Fused Plugs, when used, must be examined when the 
boiler is cleaned and carefully scraped on both the water and 
firesides, or they are liable not to act. 

ATTENTION NECESSARY TO INSURE ECONOMY 

8. Cleaning. — All heating surfaces must be kept clean, 
outside and in, or there will be a serious waste of fuel. The 
frequency of cleaning will depend on the nature of fuel and 

145 



DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 



water. As a rule, never allow over 1/16 inch scale or soot to 
collect on surfaces between cleanings. Hand-holes should be 
removed frequently and the surfaces examined, particularly in 
case of a new boiler, until proper intervals have iDeen established 
by experience. Scale 1/16 of an inch thick causes a loss of about 
13% in fuel, and yi inch scale a loss of 38%. 

9. Hot Feed Water. — Cold water should never be fed into 
any boiler when it can be avoided, but when necessary it should 
be caused to mix with the heated water before coming in contact 
with any portion of the boiler. If feed water is raised from 55 
degrees to 200 degrees, which a good heater should do, it will 
save 13>^% in fuel. 

10. Foaming. — When foaming occurs in a boiler, checking 
the outflow of steam will usually stop it. If caused by dirty 
waters, blowing down and pumping up will generally cure it. 
In case of violent foaming, check the draft and fires. 

11. Air Leaks. — Be sure that all openings for admission 
of air to boiler or flues except through the fire are carefully 
stopped. This is frequently an unsuspected cause of serious 
waste. 

12. Blowing Off. — If the feed-water is muddy or salt, 
blow off a portion frequently, according to the condition of 
the water. Empty the boiler every week or two, and fill up 
afresh. When surface blow-cocks are used, they should be 
opened often for a few minutes at a time. Make sure no water 
is escaping from the blow-off cock when it is supposed to be 
closed. Blow-off cocks and check-valves should be examined 
every time the boiler is cleaned. 

ATTENTION NECESSARY TO SECURE DURABILITY 

13. Leaks. — When leaks are discovered, they should be 
repaired as soon as possible. 

14. Blowing Off. — Never empty the boiler while the brick- 
work is hot. 

15. Filling Up. — Never pump cold water into a hot boiler.] 
Many times leaks, and in shell boilers, serious weakness, andj 
sometimes explosions are the result of such an action. 

16. Dampness. — Take care that no water comes in con-' 
tact with the exterior of the boiler from any cause, as it tends 
to corrode and weaken the boiler. Beware of all dampness in 
seating or coverings. 

146 



DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 



17. Galvanic Action. — Examine parts in contact with 
copper or brass where water is present frequently, for signs 
of corrosion. If the water is salt or acid, some metallic zinc 
placed in the boiler will usually prevent corrosion, but it will 
need attention and renewal from time to time. 

18. Rapid Firing. — In boilers with thick plates or seams 
exposed to the fire, steam should be raised slowly, and rapid 
or intense firing avoided. With thin water tubes, however, 
and adequate water circulation, no damage can come from 
this cause. 

19. Standing Unused. — If a boiler is not required for 
some time empty and dry it thoroughly. If this is impracti- 
cable, fill it quite full of water and put in a quantity of common 
washing soda. External parts exposed to dampness should 
receive a coating of linseed oil. 

20. General Cleanliness. — All things about the boiler 
room should be kept clean and in good order. NegUgence tends 
to waste and decay. 

BELTING 

The average thickness of single belts is 3/16 of an inch and 
a safe working load is assumed to be 45 lbs. per inch in width. 
This, at a velocity of 60 square feet per minute, is equal to 
one horse power. 

Belt motion should not exceed 3,000 feet per minute. Where 
narrow belts are run over small pulleys, a distance of 15 feet 
between shafts, which gives a sag of lyi to 2 inches in the 
belt is good practice. For main belts working on large pulleys 
a greater distance and sag is desirable. 

The strongest side of the belt is the flesh side one-third the 
way through. Therefore run the grain (hair) side on the pulley. 

A common rule for determining the width of a single belt 
3/16 of an inch thick to transmit any number of horse power, is 
to multiply the actual horse power by 1,000 and divide by the 
velocity of the belt in feet per minute, which gives the width 
in inches. 

A belt 1 inch wide, 800 feet per minute— one horse power. 

To find the length of a belt, add the diameter of the two 
pulleys together, divide the result by 2 and multiply the quotient 
by 3-1/7. Then add the product of twice the distance between 
centres of the shafts and you have the length required. 

147 



DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 



The resistance of belts to slipping is independent of their 
breadth. There is no advantage derived in increasing the width 
beyond that necessary to resist the strain to which it is subjected. 

Long belts are more effective than short ones. 

The strain of 350 lbs. per square inch of section is a safe 
working load. The pulley should be a little wider than the 
belt. 

STRENGTH OF ICE 

Ice 2 inches thick will bear men on foot. 

Ice 4 inches thick will bear men on horseback. 

Ice 6 inches thick will bear logging teams with light loads. 

Ice 8 inches thick will bear logging teams with heavy loads. 

Ice 10 inches thick will bear 1000 lbs. to the square foot. 

This table is for pure sound ice. 

LOG MEASURE 

To ascertain the number of feet (board measure) in a log 
of a given size, deduct four inches from its diameter at the 
small end. Square the remainder. Multiply the product by 
the length of the log and divide by 16. The result will be the 
board measure contents of the log. Logs over 24 feet in length 
are usually measured at centre for diameter. 



148 



THE FOLLOWING IS A PARTIAL LIST 
OF DISSTON PRODUCTS 



Adjustable Plumb and Levels 

Anvils 

Sawmaker's 
Setting 

Automobile Clutch Discs 

Back Saws 
Wood 
Metal 

Band Knives 
Wood 
Metal 

Band Saws 

Band Saw Blanks, (not toothed) 

Band Saws — Doulsle-Edge for Wood or Metal 

Band Saws— Flexible Back — for Metal 

Band Saw Brazing Solder 

Band Saw Brazing Clamp 

Band Saw Filing Machines 

Band Saw Guides 

Band Saw Levelling Blocks 

Band Saw Setting Machines 

Band Saw Swages 

Bars — Swage 

Barrel Stave Saws 

Bed Knives 

Beef Splitter Saws 

Beet Knives 

Beet Knife Gauges 

Beet Knife Fraisers 

Bevels 

Bilge Saws 

Bolter Saws 

Bone Saws 
Border Shears 

Boy's Buck Saws 

Brazing Clamps for Band Saws 

Brazing Solder 

Brazing Tongs 

Brazing Torches 

Bread Knives 

Brick Trowels 

Buck Saws 

Bucks — Saw 

Bucking Saws — see Cross-cut 

Burnishers — Cabinet 

Bushings — Circular Saw 

Butcher Saws — Blades and Frames 

Butcher Block Scrapers 

Butting Saws 

Cabinet Burnishers 

Cabinet Saws — Blades and Frames 

Cabinet Scrapers 

Cabinet Web Saws 

Cake Breakers Saws 

Canadian Web Saws 

Candy Knives 

Cane Knives 

Cementer's Trowels . 

Chain Saws 

Chamfering Saws 

Chipper Knives 

Chisel Teeth and Holders 

Chisel Tooth Groovers 

Chisel Tooth Saws 

Chisel Tooth Sharpening Machines 



Chisel Tooth Wrenches 

Chenille Knives 

Cigarette Knives 

Circular Knives 

Circular Saws for Bone 

Circular Saws for Horn 

Circular Saws for Ice 

Circular Saws for Ivory 

Circular Saws for Metal 
Inserted Tooth 
SoHd Tooth 

Circular Saws for Slate 

Circular Saws for Wood 
Inserted Tooth 
Solid Tooth 

Circular Saw Swages 

Clamps for Brazing Saws 

Clamps for Filing Saws 

Cloth Knives 

Coke Trowels 

Collars — Steel or Cast Iron for Shingle and 
Resaws 

Combination Circular Saws 

Combination Hand Saws 

Compass Saws 

Concave Saws 

Conqueror Swages 

Coping Saws 

Cork Knives 

Corn Knives 

Cross-cut Saws or Long Saws 
Wide or bucking 
Narrow or felling 
One-man 

Cross-cut Saw Tabs 

Cross-cut Saw Tools 

Currier Blades 

Cutlasses 

Cutters 
Keyway 
Lock Corner 

Cylinder Saws 

Cylinder Saw Gummers 

Dado Heads 

Deal Saws 

Dehorning Saws 

Discs for Cutting Cold Metal 

Ditch Bank Blades 

Docking Saws 

Doctor Blades 

Dovetail Saws 

Drag Saws 

Double Mill Saws 

Eccentric Band-Saw Swage 

Eccentric Swages for Circular Saws 

Edger Saws 

Edging Trowels 

Emery Wheel Gummer 

Excelsior Knives 

Fay Web Saws 

Felling Saws — see Cross-cut or Long Saws 

Felloe Web Saws 

Felt Knives 

Ferrules 

Fibre Saws 



149 



THE FOLLOWING IS A PARTIAL LIST OF DISSTON PRODUCTS 

Continued 



File Card and Brush 

Files and Rasps 

Filing Guides and Clamps 

Filing Machine for Band-Saw 

Flanges for Circular Saws 

Flooring Saws 

Flexible Back Band-Saws 

Fraisers 

Friction Discs 

Futtock Saws 

Gang Saws 

Garden Trowels 

Gauge Saws 

Gauges — Beet Knife 

Gauges — Carpenter's Marking 

Gauges — Mortise 

Gauges — Set 

Gauges — Tension 

Gauges — Wire 

Gin-Roller Blades 

Grass Shears 

Groovers — Chisel Tooth 

Grooving Saws 

Solid 

Inserted Tooth 
Grinders — Saw Tooth 
Guides — B and-Sa w 
Guides for Fihng Saws 
Gullet-Tooth Circular Saws 
Gummer Cutters 
Gummers — Saw 
Hack Saw Blades 

For Hand Hack Saws 

For Machine Hack Saws 
Hack Saw Frames 
Hack Saw Hand Saw Pattern 
Half Back Bench Saw 
Hammers for Setting Saws 
Hand Hack Saws 
Handles 

Saw 

Screw-Driver 

Trowel 
Hand Saw Jointers 
Hand Saws for Cross-Cutting 
Hand Saws for Ripping 
Hand Screw Presses 
Hand Shears 
Handy Kit Saws 
Hay Cutter Knives 
Heading Saws 
Hedge Knives 
Hedge Shears 
Hedge Trimmers 
High-Speed Steel Milling Saws 
High-Speed Steel Planing Knives 
Hog Knives 

Holders for Chisel Teeth 
Hooks — Pruning 
Hot Metal Saws 
Ice Saws 

Hand 

Pond 

Circular 
Imperial Cross-Cut Saw Tools 
Ink Plates 

Inserted Tooth Circular Saws 
Interlocking Tooth Circular Saws for Metal 
Internal Cutting Circular Saws 

Solid 



Inserted Tooth 
Iron Saws 
Ivory Saws 
Jeweler's Saws 
Joiner Saws 
Jointers for Hand Saws 
Keyhole Saws 
Keyway Cutters 
Kitchen Saws 
Knives 

Band 

Circular 

Saw 

Machine 
Knives 

Bed 

Beet 

Bread 

Candy 

Chenille 

Chipper 

Cigarette 

Cloth 

Cork 

Corn 

Excelsior 

Felt 

Hedge 

High Speed Steel Planing 

Hog 

Lawn-Mower 

Leather 

Meat 

Mincing 

Mitre 

Moulding 

Paper 

Perforator 

Pineapple 

Planing 

Pruning 

Rubber 

Slasher 

Slitter 

Stop Cutter 

Tobacco 

Veneer 
Lathe and Axe Handle Saws 
Lawn Mower Knives 
Lawn Shears 
Lap Filing Vises 
Leather Knives 
Levels 

Adjustable 

Mason's 

Non-adjustable 

Pocket 

Shafting 
Levelling Blocks for Band Saws 
Lock Corner Cutters 
Long Saws (See Cross cut Saws) 
Machettes 

Machine for Filing Band-Saws 
Machine for Setting Band-Saws and Circular 

Saws 
Machine for Sharpening Chisel Teeth 
Machine Knives 
Magneto Files 
Mandrels 
Mason's Levels 



150 



THE FOLLOWING IS A PARTIAL LIST OF DISSTON PRODUCTS 

Continued 



Mason's Mitr« Rods 
Meat Knives 
Metal Saws 

Band 

Circular 

Hand 
Metal Saws — Interlocking Tooth 
Metal Slitting Saws 
Midget Saw Punches 
Mill Saws 

Milling Saws for Metal 

Milling Saws — High-Speed Steel — for Metal 
Mincing Knives 
Mitre Box Saws 
Mitre Knives 
Mitre Rods — Mason's 
Mitre Saws — Circular 
Mitre Squares 
Mohawk Band Saw Guides 
Moulding Knives 
Mulay Saws 
Nests of Saws 
One-Man Croas-Cut Saws 
Panel Saws 
Paper Knives 
Pattern Maker's Saws 
Pearl Saws 
Perforator Knives 
Pineapple Knives 
Pit Saws 
Planing Knives 
Plastering Trowels 
Plates — Ink 
Plumb-and-Levels 
Plumber's Nests of Saws 
Plumber's Saws 
Pocket Levels 
Pointing Trowels 
Pork Packer's Saws 
Post Hole Diggers 
Press — Hand Screws 
Pruning Hook and Saws 
Pruning Saws 
Pruning Saws and Knives 
Pruning Shears 
Punches for Saw Blades 
Rail Hack Saws — Blades and Frames 
Raisin Seeders 
Rasps 

Removable Back Saws 
Re-Saws 
Rift Saws 

Rods for Wood Saws 
Rubber Knives 
Saw Bucks 

Saw Clamps and Filing Guides 
Saw Collars 
Saw Flanges 
Saw Handles 
Saw Knives 
Saw Maker's Anvils 
Saw Punches 
Saw Rods 
Saw Screws 
Saw Sets 
Scrapers 

Butcher Block 

Cabinet 

Wall 
Screw-Drivers 



Screw-Driver Hfcndleft 

Screw Presses 

Screws — Saw 

Screw Slotting Saws 

Sectional Interlocked Circular Saws 

Seeders — Raisin 

Segment Saws 

Set Gauges 

Sets — Saw 

Setting Anvils 

Setting Machines for Band Saws 

Setting Machines for Circular Saws 

Setting Stakes 

Setting Tools 

Shafting Levels 

Shapers — Swage 

Sharpening Machine for Chisel Teeth 

Sharpening Machine for Circular Metal Saws 

Sharpening Tools 

Shears 

Border 

Grass 

Hedge 

Lawn 

Pruning 

Trimming 
Shingle Saws 
Ship — Carpenter's Saws 
Side Files 
Siding Saws 
Slasher Saws 
Slate Saws 
Slicker Blades 
Slitter Knives 
Slitting Saws for Metal 
Slotted Rim Circular Saws 
Solder for Brazing Band Saws 
Solid Tooth Circular Saws 
Speed Indicators 
Splitter Saws 
Spuds — Tobacco 
Squares 

Machinists 

Mitre 

Try and Bevel 
Square Hole Saws 
Stair Builder's Saws 
Stave Saws 

Steming Saws for Peanuts 
Stone Saws 
Stop Cutter Knives 
Straight Edges 
Superfine Files 
Swages 
Swage Bars 
Swage Shapers 
Swiss Pattern Files 
Surgical Saws 
Sword Blades 
Table Saws 

Tabs for Cross-Cut Saws 
Teeth— Chisel 
Tension Gauges 
Thin Rim Circular Saws 
Tiller Handles and Boxes 
Tobacco Knives 
Tobacco Spuds 
Tongs — Brazing 

Tools for Fitting Cross-Cut Saws 
Tools for Repairing Saws 



151 



THE FOLLOWING IS A 



Top Saws for Double Mills 
Torches — Brazing 
Trimmers — Hedge 
Trimming Shears 
Trowels 

Brick 

Cementer's 

Circle 

Coke 

Corner 

Cross Joint 

Edging 

Garden 

Plastering 

Plasterer's Finishing 

Pointing 

Tile Setter's 
Try Squares 
Tile Setter's Trowels 
Tubing Saws 
Turkish Saws 
Turning Web Saws 
Universal Cross-Cut Saw Tools 



PARTIAL LIST OF DISSTON PRODUCTS 

Continued 



Veneering Saws 
Veneer Knives 
Vises — for Lap Filing 
Wall Scrapers 
Web Saws 

Cabinet Pattern 

Canadian 

Chair 

Fay 

Felloe 

Slate 

Turning 
Web Saws 

Blades 

Frames 

Rods 
Whip Saws 
Wire Gauges 
Wood Saws 

Blades 

Frames 

Rods 
Wrenches — for Chisel Tooth Saws 



152 



INDEX 



Page 

Foreword 3 

The History and Development of the 

House of Disston '6 

Disston Steel 10 

General Information about Circular 

Saws 13 

Styles of Teeth for Circular Saws 13 

Solid Tooth Saws ; . 14 

Inserted Tooth Saws 14 

Disston Standard Gauge 14 

List of Equivalents of Gauges. . . 15 

How to Order Circular Saws 16 

Hints for Operation of Circular Saws 17 
Some of the Causes of Complaints 

against Saws and Saw Makers. . . 18 
Setting the Carriage Track and 

Husk or Saw Frame 18 

Lining the Saw with the Carriage 19 

Collars for Saws 20 

Adjusting Saw to Mill. 20 

Saw Guide 21 

Speed of Saws 22 

Speed of Saws Runnin^g 10,000 Ft. 

per Minute on the Rim 22 

Rules for Calculating Speed, etc.... 22 

Speed Indicator 23 

Thin and Extra Thin Large Saws. . . 23 
Instructions for Setting: and Sharp- 
ening (or Fitting) Circular Saws. .. 25 

Sharpening Cut-Off Saws 29 

Saws for Cold Weather Use 33 

Sharpening and Gumming with Emery 

Wheels 33 

Trammel for Circular Saw Teeth 35 

Gullet-Tooth Circular Saw 36 

Tools for Fitting Circular Saws 41 

Victor Self-Feeding Saw Gummer 41 

Double-Geared No. 1 Saw Gummer. . 42 

Cutter Grinder 44 

Conqueror Swage, Jumper or Upset. . . 44 
Directions for Using the Conqueror 

Swage 45 

Machine for Setting Circular Saws. . . 46 

Inserted Tooth Circular Saws 47 

Chisel-Point Circular Saws 47 

Uses of Chisel-Point Saws 48 

How to Order Chisel-Point Saws. .. 48 

Styles of Teeth 48 

Holders 49 

Special Holders 49 

Guides 50 

Inserting New Points 50 

Sharpening Chisel-Points 50 

Chisel-Point File 50 

Swaging Points 51 

Dressing Points 51 

Width of Cutting-Edge 52 

"Fitting" Saws to Cut Frozen 

Timber 52 

Directions for Ordering Chisel- 
Points and Holders 53 

Important Notice 54 



Page 

Inserted Tooth Saws. No. 10 Pattern 54 
Inserted Tooth Re-Saws, No. 16 

Pattern 54 

Inserted Tooth Circukr Cross-Cut 

Saws 56 

Spiral Tooth Circular Cut-Off Saw 56 
Diamond-Point Inserted Tooth Cir- 
cular Ice Saw 57 

Inserted Tooth Saws, American Saw 

Co.'s Designs 58 

Trenton Tooth, 1894 Style 58 

Saws for Special Purposes 60 

Shingle and Heading Saws 60 

Screws for Shingle Saws 60 

Flanges or Collars for Shingle and 

Heading Saws 61 

Set Gauge for Shingle, Heading and 

Veneer Saws 62 

Veneering Saws in Segments. 62 

Concave Saws 63 

Bilge and Cylinder Saws 63 

Re-Filing Cylinder and Bilge Saws 64 

Chamfering Saw 65 

Grooving Saws, Solid Tooth 65 

Keystone Groover or Dado Head 66 

Lock-Corner Cutters 67 

Thin Rim Circular Saws 67 

Circular Mitre Saws 68 

Circular Mitre Saw with Cleaner 

Tooth 68 

Hammering and Adjusting Circular 

Saws (Tensioning) 69 

Anvil, Hammers, and Straight Edges 

for Repairing Saws 79 

Swage Bar Hammer 79 

Swage Bar 79 

Circular Saw Mandrels 80 

Disston Circular Saw Mandrels 81 

Cordwood Mandrels 82 

Band Saw^s 83 

Left-Hand and Right-Hand Saw Mills 83 
Hints for the Operation of Band Saws 83 
Directions for Leveling and Tension- 
ing Band Saws 87 

Twists — How to Locate and Remove 

Them 92 

The Care of Band Saw Teeth 96 

Standard Shapes and Spacing of 
Teeth in Disston Band Rip Saws 

and Re-Saw8 99 

Log Band 100 

Band Cross-Cut Teeth 103 

Brazing Band Saws 104 

Brazing Clamp 105 

Care of Brazes 106 

Directions for Using Lever Brazing 
Clamp on Narrow Band Saws .... 107 

Brazing Tongs 108 

Breakage of Small Band Saws 109 

List of Machines and Tools to Make 
Complete Outfit for Band Saw Fil- 
ing Room 109 

Brazing Clamp for Wide Band Saws 1 10 



153 



INDEX- 

Page 

Eccentric Swage for Band Saws..,. 110 
Swage Shaper for Band and Gang 

Saws Ill 

Swage Shaper 112 

Holder for Grinding Swage Shaper 

Dies 112 

Stop Plate for Grinding Table 113 

Hand-Screw Press 113 

Mohawk Band Saw Guide 114 

Improved Setting ^lachine for Nar- 
row Band Saws 115 

Automatic Filing Machine for Nar- 
row Band Saws 115 

Reciprocating Saws .- . 117 

Drag-Saws for Motor-Driven Ma- 
chines lis 

Tools for Refitting Drag Saws ...... US 

Cross-Cut Saws 120 

Illustrations of Different Patterns of 

Cross-Cut Saw Teeth 121 

Disston High Grade Cross-Cut Saws 123 
The Raker or Cleaner Tooth of 

Cross-Cut Saws 125 



Continued 

Page 

Care of Cross-Cut Saws 129 

Disston Imperial Cross-Cut Saw Tools 129 
Setting and Sharpening (or "Fit- 
ting") with the Imperial 130 

Hammer and Anvil 134 

Disston Handles for Cross-Cut Saws . 135 

Files 137 

Machine Knives 139 

Table Shows the Value of the Diss- 
ton Wire Gauge 141 

Disston Standard Wire Gauges 142 

Useful Information 143 

Hydraulics 143 

Care of Boilers 144 

Attention Necessary to Insure 

Safety 144 

Attention Necessary to Insure 

Economy 145 

Attention Necessary to Secure 

Durability 146 ^ 

Belting 147 

Strength of Ice 148 

Log Measure 1481 

List of Disston Products 149^ 



154 



BENJ, F. EMERY CO.. PHILA. 



LIBRftRY OF CONGRESS 



000 980 284 8 



